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Is this the fabeled best gaming TV? (Samsung KS8000)

ss_lemonade

Member
I know right? So cheap for a quality set. My current TV cost $3000 when I got it 8 years ago, but back then it was considered god tier. To some degree, it probably is till considered god tier.

I got my w900a for $1200 around 2 - 3 years ago. It was an open box item at our local Best Buy, their last one too but it came it with everything (remotes, glasses, stand) and had no issues at all. It still looks great today for 1080p content and in my eyes compares very favorably to my ks9000 in PQ and gaming.

With that said, I think these KS TVs have the best value if you can get one with EPP pricing.
 

vg260

Member
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.

Someone correct me if wrong, but the whole reason for the number variation is that it is the same TV but with a different number so that it can't be price matched between retailers. Otherwise it is the same TV.
 

BiGBoSSMk23

A company being excited for their new game is a huge slap in the face to all the fans that liked their old games.
The idea is you need 1000 nits or else nothing works. In reality, only strong light sources ever hit 1000 nits and films are mastered so the baseline is similar to a standard image and peak at 500 in most scenes.

You sound like you know your shit.

So, the deciding factor for HDR is local dimming not peak brightness, correct?
 

LOLCats

Banned
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.

uh... those are the same TVs with different bezels.

and best buy wont price match, its different model numbers...
 

ViciousDS

Banned
The LG OLEDs are probably better now that they have a game mode with lower latency. That said, they are a lot more expensive. The Samsung is a lot of bang for the buck.

I would love an OLED....especially with the fix now

but to answer the OP yes its the same and there is nothing wrong for owning the best LED 4k gaming TV for the price compared to an OLED




The Sony X900E should be mentioned here. I like it more than the KS8000

1080p @ 60Hz : 31.5 ms
1080p With Interpolation : 105.5 ms
1080p @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode : 105.5 ms
1080p @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 : 31.5 ms
4k @ 60Hz : 34.1 ms
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 : 34.1 ms
4k @ 60Hz + HDR : 34.2 ms
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR : 34.2 ms


I'll take the 21.5ms with HDR anyday on the KS8000 over the sony models 30+
 

ngower

Member
If you were to pick up a 55" X900E of KS8000 for mostly Blu Rays and eventually 4K gaming, what would you pick?
 

Setzer

Member
Someone correct me if wrong, but the whole reason for the number variation is that it is the same TV but with a different number so that it can't be price matched between retailers. Otherwise it is the same TV.

That and the Costco one has a different color bezel. Aside from that they're the exact same TV.
 

ViciousDS

Banned
X930E - ~25ms w/HDR + allmost all processing and local dimming. It's $$$ though.


Why does it have a worse color range than it's lower end model?


......it's like they make something in their series of models on the high end better at something and then something else is worse and better on the low end.

That peak brightness though and local dimming even works halfway decent on a edge lit LED is impressive though
 

phen0m24

Member
The KS800D is the "warehouse club-model" of the KS8000. The guy at Costco said they have that different model # really to avoid price matching with the 8000, I guess that's if another store sold it as a loss leader.

I just set up my 2nd 800D, as the first was experiencing issues with the screen flickering to black and then it would no longer power on. Costco.com was super helpful and the new set is amazing.

I'm blown away by those who got this set for around $750, but I won't complain considering Costco doubled their normally 2 year warranty (using a Costco Visa).

Games and video look incredible. Sounds ok, but I connected a Bose bluetooth speaker for kicks and it sounds great.
 
I have an LG OLED E6 and it’s perfect for gaming. I don’t have any lag or latency issues, at least anything that’s noticeable.

However, even though I’ve played some quick games (like the new Odin Sphere), I haven’t played any fighting games.

But the games look phenomenal on the screen.

I have an E6 as well, and have seen latency numbers at 4k 60hz. It's around 10-20ms.

If you use cinema mode and turn the lumins up to 500 it's just phenomenal. Not sure what that does to the longevity of the TV though. Now I think of it I haven't tested input lag with the setting either.
 

reKon

Banned
I got mine from Costco for the free eztended warranty and I can exchange it if I was to within 90 days no exception. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth the hassle because the top left back panel is a tiny bit raised. I don't want to exchange the TV to only get one with worse issues.
 

Madness

Member
The LG OLEDs are probably better now that they have a game mode with lower latency. That said, they are a lot more expensive. The Samsung is a lot of bang for the buck.

This was always the whole point of the television. When it launched the LG B6 had nearly triple the input lag. And it still costs much much more than the KS8000.

If you guys followed the thread for the KS8000 here on GAF or the buy a tv for a PS4 Pro thread, there was a solid week where you could have gotten the 55" KS8000 for $729, I got the 65" for $1079. That was literally firesale unheard of pricing.

It was the best picture meets best input lag meets best price. I still think ntohing has beat its 21ms or lower input lag amongst the newer flagships. They have come close. The C7 and X930E and whatnot are also well over $1000-$1500 more than the KS8000 could have been had.

You sound like you know your shit.

So, the deciding factor for HDR is local dimming not peak brightness, correct?

No the standard for HDR, the most important thing is DCI and Color Accuracy and Wide Color Gamut. The tekevision that covers the largest area of the spectrum because HDR needs the availability of colors. Then comes the brightness and blacks. Brightness is a bigger factor because of how HDR10 is implemented. You will find non-FALD blacks be frustrating when it is a black screen, but 1500-2000 nits will make movies like Planet Earth II and Mad Max HDR scream as there is very little dark dark screen but copious amounts of light and color needed. Ideally, FALD LED or OLED with great brightness would be ideal.
 
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.

lol it's the exact same, the only difference is the D= costco/walmart. I just purchased it last week from Wal-Mart and even got the fabled AA02 panel which is the more superior panel (higher nits, better colors). Best Buy still sells the inferior FA02 panel among them.
 

Fongul

Member
I was thinking of picking up the 55' KS800D refurb from Walmart ($700 with free store shipping!) or hold off & buy it new instead. I'm leery of pulling the trigger on a refurb for some reason...

I'm also leery regarding the KS800D because of the lack of component inputs. I wanted to keep my Xbox/PS2/GC connected still. Anyone use a Component to HDMI converter box with the KS8000/KS800D & if so, does it upscale decently?
 

hemtaro

Neo Member
I got the 55" ks8000 for $750. Brother got the 55" lg c6 for $1300. Best bang for buck definitely goes to the ks8000. If you can afford lg c6, go for that instead. Looks waaaay better when configured next to my ks8000
 

laxu

Member
There's an annoying bug on both the KS and KU models that causes RGB separation while using Game Mode. I'd recommend to stay away from Samsung screens until this gets fixed, if it ever does.

Here's an example of the bug: https://youtu.be/8yFB3-naqzA

I've owned the KS8000 for something like 6 months now and have seen that maybe once and even then it appeared for like a second and went away. Don't know if it's fixed on current firmwares or not.

I don't have high hopes for good firmware development for any TV, for some reason no matter the brand it seems like they are developed by people who have no talent for interface design or bug-free performance. With new models coming every year the old ones seem to barely get patched.

The current annoyances on the KS8000 are

  • UI is sometimes a bit jerky right after starting the TV.
  • Settings menus are a bit annoying to traverse with several depths and no wraparound from last item to first.
  • I have had both Netflix and HBO stuck into states where they are not loading until forcibly restarted by holding the back button the remote and then selecting the app again
  • In game mode you have to change backlight setting manually when viewing HDR. Samsung is aware of the issue but so far doesn't seem that keen to do anything about it even though it should be a fairly simple fix.
  • Nintendo Switch will sometimes switches the TV HDMI input while you are watching TV or using any of the apps on the TV. This is probably Nintendo's fault as no other console has the issue and it happens on other TV brands too.
  • TV apparently has a 120 Hz panel but does not support 120 Hz input so you can't use for example 1080p/120 Hz (4K/120 Hz is out because of HDMI 2.0 bandwidth)

I think it's a really good TV set but like everything out there, not perfect. Its panel response time isn't the fastest due to VA tech but even though I have a super fast response time/input lag/refresh rate G-Sync desktop monitor I have not been bothered by any input lag or response time issues when playing on the Samsung.

So at the moment the KS8000 is probably the best choice for price vs performance.

That said, the LG C7 seems like it would be pretty good too: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7#page-top
Input lag matches KS8000, supports 120 Hz input. But at least over here it seems to cost 4x more than what I paid for my 65" KS8000.
 
What exactly am I looking for here? I am incredibly OCD when it comes to TVs, but I cannot see anything in that video.

Like the guy below said, look at the red double image separating at the end of the video. It will happen every hour or so on Game Mode.

I've owned the KS8000 for something like 6 months now and have seen that maybe once and even then it appeared for like a second and went away. Don't know if it's fixed on current firmwares or not.

I don't have high hopes for good firmware development for any TV, for some reason no matter the brand it seems like they are developed by people who have no talent for interface design or bug-free performance. With new models coming every year the old ones seem to barely get patched.

The current annoyances on the KS8000 are

  • UI is sometimes a bit jerky right after starting the TV.
  • Settings menus are a bit annoying to traverse with several depths and no wraparound from last item to first.
  • I have had both Netflix and HBO stuck into states where they are not loading until forcibly restarted by holding the back button the remote and then selecting the app again
  • In game mode you have to change backlight setting manually when viewing HDR. Samsung is aware of the issue but so far doesn't seem that keen to do anything about it even though it should be a fairly simple fix.
  • Nintendo Switch will sometimes switches the TV HDMI input while you are watching TV or using any of the apps on the TV. This is probably Nintendo's fault as no other console has the issue and it happens on other TV brands too.
  • TV apparently has a 120 Hz panel but does not support 120 Hz input so you can't use for example 1080p/120 Hz (4K/120 Hz is out because of HDMI 2.0 bandwidth)

I think it's a really good TV set but like everything out there, not perfect. Its panel response time isn't the fastest due to VA tech but even though I have a super fast response time/input lag/refresh rate G-Sync desktop monitor I have not been bothered by any input lag or response time issues when playing on the Samsung.

So at the moment the KS8000 is probably the best choice for price vs performance.

That said, the LG C7 seems like it would be pretty good too: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7#page-top
Input lag matches KS8000, supports 120 Hz input. But at least over here it seems to cost 4x more than what I paid for my 65" KS8000.

It strange that you say you have only seen it once, as Samsung forums are full of people with this bug. It's not a random thing that happens to certain models, it happens with every KU and KS model. It is a software bug tho, so there's hope that they can fix it via a firmware update. I seriously recommend to stay away from Samsung if that problem annoys you (if you are OCD like the guy above said) I'll never buy Samsung ever again, if you ask me.
 

laxu

Member
Like the guy below said, look at the red double image separating at the end of the video. It will happen every hour or so on Game Mode.

It strange that you say you have only seen it once, as Samsung forums are full of people with this bug. It's not a random thing that happens to certain models, it happens with every KU and KS model. It is a software bug tho, so there's hope that they can fix it via a firmware update. I seriously recommend to stay away from Samsung if that problem annoys you (if you are OCD like the guy above said) I'll never buy Samsung ever again, if you ask me.

I don't know what to tell you but we have been gaming on Switch and PS4 Pro here for hours at a time and no issues with this bug. Might be one of those hard to track bugs if it can't be reproduced consistently or maybe it is only constant on some country model's firmware. I have the KS7005 which is the Nordic variant of the KS8000.
 

ss_lemonade

Member
Like the guy below said, look at the red double image separating at the end of the video. It will happen every hour or so on Game Mode.
To be honest, I have never seen the issue happen with most of my games during normal gameplay, unless I was messing around toggling HDR like in my video there (some games like Horizon don't exhibit it though when changing HDR settings), or when I was playing Final Fantasy 15 a few months ago, where it would happen only once or twice for a split second. For example, I'm about 25 hours in with Persona 5 and haven't seen it happen once there.

I guess it happens more often with some people? Could it be equipment related? I recently moved my consoles from being connected directly to my TV to going through my receiver. Maybe that's made a difference and why I do not see the issue anymore? I also have never had the Nintendo Switch tripping my TV's inputs
 

laxu

Member
To be honest, I have never seen the issue happen with most of my games during normal gameplay, unless I was messing around toggling HDR like in my video there (some games like Horizon don't exhibit it though when changing HDR settings), or when I was playing Final Fantasy 15 a few months ago, where it would happen only once or twice for a split second. For example, I'm about 25 hours in with Persona 5 and haven't seen it happen once there.

I guess it happens more often with some people? Could it be equipment related? I recently moved my consoles from being connected directly to my TV to going through my receiver. Maybe that's made a difference and why I do not see the issue anymore? I also have never had the Nintendo Switch tripping my TV's inputs

I have all my consoles connected straight to the TV since I don't have a 4K compatible receiver and my Denon is a POS that adds a lot of input lag. If you have the Switch connected to a receiver it probably is not able to switch the input in sleep mode.
 

meanspartan

Member
ya, that's it.

it's ace.

just be forewarned if you have a Switch. It does not play well with the auto-detect and will require you to unplug it anytime it's not in use.

This seems to be true of Samsungs generally. My KU 6300 (the more budget little brother of the ks8000, still looks great just no full HDR) does the same thing with the switch, randomly switches to HDMI 3 frequently for no reason when switch is in sleep mode. I have not tried turning it off entirely, maybe that would work. I just disconnect the HDMI cable.
 

ss_lemonade

Member
I have all my consoles connected straight to the TV since I don't have a 4K compatible receiver and my Denon is a POS that adds a lot of input lag. If you have the Switch connected to a receiver it probably is not able to switch the input in sleep mode.
I guess that makes sense with the Switch. It also doesn't change inputs while I'm using native apps like youtube but maybe that doesn't apply there? I'll have to try using another device connected directly to the TV to see if the switch will force change to the input used by it/my receiver.
 

Kawika

Member
I'll take the 21.5ms with HDR anyday on the KS8000 over the sony models 30+

You will take severe image juttering and overshooting w/ that 10-15 Ms of input lag. You are basically giving up something like half to one frame to not have frame skipping or image tearing by going with a Sony.

As someone who had 2 2016 Samsung models and a 2016 Sony model I will say the input lag and HDR on the 8000 is a beautiful thing but I can't stand the way the image will jutter on certain sources (game mode and some streaming). I am pretty sensitive to input lag but what's worse than that is when your TV sudden jumps and you are now in a place you didn't expect to be on screen as a result. I found playing retro games on my Framemeister w/ the Samsung to be awesome until the screen jutter kicked in. Often this would make me miss a platform entirely bc I didn't see it. So every 4-10 seconds some form of screen jutter or tear would occur. I don't have this issue at all on my 2015 or 2016 Sony 4K TVs. I love Samsung TVs I just think that people should be aware of the disadvantage to that 10-15ms difference.

So, if you can't stand screen tearing or juttering go with the sony. If that isn't a problem for you by all means get the Samsung. Seems like most sensitive to input lag folks should just game on a computer monitor and watch TV on another tv.

***I'm going to buy a 2017 Samsung TV before my return window is up on my Sony just to see but from what I hear this juttering is still an issue which really sucks.
 
I haven't seen the RGB separation on my KS8000 either. I've been fortunate not to have any of the aforementioned issues except for YouTube signing me out every now and then. For an overall best set, the LG OLED's are great if price isn't an issue.
 

Madness

Member
Lol, if you are playing under 50 ms you are good. People were playing with like 58 ms on their LG B6 before it was halved to 28ms. For the past ten years before input lag even measured by review sites, we were playing with input lag in the low teens to 70ms without knowing it. Anything under 35 is great, anything in the 20's is amazing.
 
The Sony X900E should be mentioned here. I like it more than the KS8000

Especially since Samsung is not even making the KS8000's anymore. And their new line isn't better, just more expensive.


There is no doubt that the KS8000 was the best bang for your buck last year. especially for gaming. But it was also a year in which manufacturers were still figuring out HDR and input lag. This year will see several TVs that hit those marks, and many better.
 

SephCast

Brotherhood of Shipley's
Anyone have a 4k HDMI switchbox they use with this tv? I have PS4 pro and Xbox One S and want to make sure i'm getting the right one
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Yeah, the B6, if anything - is too sharp - it exposes any lower res or low bitrate feed as the shit it is. On my older LCD I didn't notice it nearly as much (re: cable TV).

Maybe it just doesn't matter as much to my eyes. I still play Wii games on the thing and the low-res source image doesn't bother me too much. Certainly not any more than it did on my old 1080p LCD.
 
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