Marty Chinn
Member
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.
What?
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.
I know right? So cheap for a quality set. My current TV cost $3000 when I got it 8 years ago, but back then it was considered god tier. To some degree, it probably is till considered god tier.
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.
The idea is you need 1000 nits or else nothing works. In reality, only strong light sources ever hit 1000 nits and films are mastered so the baseline is similar to a standard image and peak at 500 in most scenes.What does this mean?
What?
The idea is you need 1000 nits or else nothing works. In reality, only strong light sources ever hit 1000 nits and films are mastered so the baseline is similar to a standard image and peak at 500 in most scenes.
I just want to hear his crazy rational for that claim.He's talking bologna.
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.
The LG OLEDs are probably better now that they have a game mode with lower latency. That said, they are a lot more expensive. The Samsung is a lot of bang for the buck.
The Sony X900E should be mentioned here. I like it more than the KS8000
1080p @ 60Hz : 31.5 ms
1080p With Interpolation : 105.5 ms
1080p @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode : 105.5 ms
1080p @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 : 31.5 ms
4k @ 60Hz : 34.1 ms
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 : 34.1 ms
4k @ 60Hz + HDR : 34.2 ms
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR : 34.2 ms
I'll take the 21.5ms with HDR anyday on the KS8000 over the sony models 30+
Someone correct me if wrong, but the whole reason for the number variation is that it is the same TV but with a different number so that it can't be price matched between retailers. Otherwise it is the same TV.
X930E - ~25ms w/HDR + allmost all processing and local dimming. It's $$$ though.
You sound like you know your shit.
So, the deciding factor for HDR is local dimming not peak brightness, correct?
I have an LG OLED E6 and its perfect for gaming. I dont have any lag or latency issues, at least anything thats noticeable.
However, even though Ive played some quick games (like the new Odin Sphere), I havent played any fighting games.
But the games look phenomenal on the screen.
The LG OLEDs are probably better now that they have a game mode with lower latency. That said, they are a lot more expensive. The Samsung is a lot of bang for the buck.
You sound like you know your shit.
So, the deciding factor for HDR is local dimming not peak brightness, correct?
There's an annoying bug on both the KS and KU models that causes RGB separation while using Game Mode. I'd recommend to stay away from Samsung screens until this gets fixed, if it ever does.
Here's an example of the bug: https://youtu.be/8yFB3-naqzA
What exactly am I looking for here? I am incredibly OCD when it comes to TVs, but I cannot see anything in that video.
You sound like you know your shit.
So, the deciding factor for HDR is local dimming not peak brightness, correct?
The KS800D =/= the KS8000. Costco's tvs aren't legit, buy it from a best buy and have even them price match. Otherwise the KS8000 is fantastic.
What is their current price for the 55" version? I can't see it because I'm not a member.
What is their current price for the 55" version? I can't see it because I'm not a member.
There's an annoying bug on both the KS and KU models that causes RGB separation while using Game Mode. I'd recommend to stay away from Samsung screens until this gets fixed, if it ever does.
Here's an example of the bug: https://youtu.be/8yFB3-naqzA
What exactly am I looking for here? I am incredibly OCD when it comes to TVs, but I cannot see anything in that video.
I've owned the KS8000 for something like 6 months now and have seen that maybe once and even then it appeared for like a second and went away. Don't know if it's fixed on current firmwares or not.
I don't have high hopes for good firmware development for any TV, for some reason no matter the brand it seems like they are developed by people who have no talent for interface design or bug-free performance. With new models coming every year the old ones seem to barely get patched.
The current annoyances on the KS8000 are
- UI is sometimes a bit jerky right after starting the TV.
- Settings menus are a bit annoying to traverse with several depths and no wraparound from last item to first.
- I have had both Netflix and HBO stuck into states where they are not loading until forcibly restarted by holding the back button the remote and then selecting the app again
- In game mode you have to change backlight setting manually when viewing HDR. Samsung is aware of the issue but so far doesn't seem that keen to do anything about it even though it should be a fairly simple fix.
- Nintendo Switch will sometimes switches the TV HDMI input while you are watching TV or using any of the apps on the TV. This is probably Nintendo's fault as no other console has the issue and it happens on other TV brands too.
- TV apparently has a 120 Hz panel but does not support 120 Hz input so you can't use for example 1080p/120 Hz (4K/120 Hz is out because of HDMI 2.0 bandwidth)
I think it's a really good TV set but like everything out there, not perfect. Its panel response time isn't the fastest due to VA tech but even though I have a super fast response time/input lag/refresh rate G-Sync desktop monitor I have not been bothered by any input lag or response time issues when playing on the Samsung.
So at the moment the KS8000 is probably the best choice for price vs performance.
That said, the LG C7 seems like it would be pretty good too: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7#page-top
Input lag matches KS8000, supports 120 Hz input. But at least over here it seems to cost 4x more than what I paid for my 65" KS8000.
Like the guy below said, look at the red double image separating at the end of the video. It will happen every hour or so on Game Mode.
It strange that you say you have only seen it once, as Samsung forums are full of people with this bug. It's not a random thing that happens to certain models, it happens with every KU and KS model. It is a software bug tho, so there's hope that they can fix it via a firmware update. I seriously recommend to stay away from Samsung if that problem annoys you (if you are OCD like the guy above said) I'll never buy Samsung ever again, if you ask me.
To be honest, I have never seen the issue happen with most of my games during normal gameplay, unless I was messing around toggling HDR like in my video there (some games like Horizon don't exhibit it though when changing HDR settings), or when I was playing Final Fantasy 15 a few months ago, where it would happen only once or twice for a split second. For example, I'm about 25 hours in with Persona 5 and haven't seen it happen once there.Like the guy below said, look at the red double image separating at the end of the video. It will happen every hour or so on Game Mode.
To be honest, I have never seen the issue happen with most of my games during normal gameplay, unless I was messing around toggling HDR like in my video there (some games like Horizon don't exhibit it though when changing HDR settings), or when I was playing Final Fantasy 15 a few months ago, where it would happen only once or twice for a split second. For example, I'm about 25 hours in with Persona 5 and haven't seen it happen once there.
I guess it happens more often with some people? Could it be equipment related? I recently moved my consoles from being connected directly to my TV to going through my receiver. Maybe that's made a difference and why I do not see the issue anymore? I also have never had the Nintendo Switch tripping my TV's inputs
ya, that's it.
it's ace.
just be forewarned if you have a Switch. It does not play well with the auto-detect and will require you to unplug it anytime it's not in use.
I guess that makes sense with the Switch. It also doesn't change inputs while I'm using native apps like youtube but maybe that doesn't apply there? I'll have to try using another device connected directly to the TV to see if the switch will force change to the input used by it/my receiver.I have all my consoles connected straight to the TV since I don't have a 4K compatible receiver and my Denon is a POS that adds a lot of input lag. If you have the Switch connected to a receiver it probably is not able to switch the input in sleep mode.
I'll take the 21.5ms with HDR anyday on the KS8000 over the sony models 30+
The Sony X900E should be mentioned here. I like it more than the KS8000
Yeah, the B6, if anything - is too sharp - it exposes any lower res or low bitrate feed as the shit it is. On my older LCD I didn't notice it nearly as much (re: cable TV).