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Attention Original Xbox owners - Remove the Time Capacitor before it's too late!
- Thread starter TheChaos0
- Start date
Pandora012
Member
Seriously? I have to get mine out of storage to check this out.
7DollarHagane
Banned
Just put out an Otogi HD collection, Panzer Dragoon Orta HD, and Breakdown HD and i can throw my original xbox in the trash.
runnin_blue
Banned
Thank you MS.
#builttolast
#builttolast
Bluekaveli
Member
Jayz new album
No. I was more saying that electrics in humid environments and areas will have moisture build up and the like. Same with dust. If you don't open the system up and clean it out, it'll break eventually.
This doesn't mean you can't put your systems in the attic and the like: You totally can. The system will be fine... but you should probably open it up if you're planning to use it again to knock dust out and check for water damage/etc. before turning it on.
As for capacitors: this will explain. The short gist is: These capacitors keep a small "charge" in them (in the case of the X-box, to keep the clock running) and these capacitors will "leak" acid like most electronic devices eventually if they're like the capacitors the X-box has.
7DollarHagane
Banned
What i'm really surprised by is that the hard drives in most/all original xboxes aren't dead by now. Mechanical hard drives lasting past 5 years is usually a gamble. we're at over 10 for many that were manufactured now.
Replacing the hard drive is a much bigger pain in the ass than this is because only certain drives work and they're getting very old as well.
Replacing the hard drive is a much bigger pain in the ass than this is because only certain drives work and they're getting very old as well.
TheDarkKnight774
Member
Damn. I'll need to look at my launch Xbox tomorrow.
Ah, that's too bad. Thanks for the info! I wonder if it just had the launch game special treatment by reviewers.
BumblebeeCody
Member
There's that word again? Valkillmore, in the year 2014 is there something wrong with the original Xboxs Clock Capacitor?
I have a softmodded one with all of my games on the HDD. I'd assume it'd be harder to replace the HDD and re-softmod it now since my PC doesn't have any IDE ports. I haven't kept up.
TheDarkKnight774
Member
I ripped it out of my 2001 launch xbox. I did see some corrosion around it but maybe not too bad. Oddly enough it doesn't ask me for date/time everytime i start the system
It does do this everytime i unplug the system. But it did that before. So maybe it was already busted before i removed it
It does do this everytime i unplug the system. But it did that before. So maybe it was already busted before i removed it
The pain in the ass comes from finding a compatible hdd since you need to "lock" it for it to run and you can't do that with all hdds. There are a lot of sata hdds that are compatible with the Xbox though and you can simply use one of these adapters:
Use this list to see if your hdd is compatible: http://xboxdrives.x-pec.com/?p=list
Replacing the Hdd is not that hard, there is a tool called Chimp that you run from the Xbox (if it's already softmodded of course). If you have both Hdds connected to the xbox, you can clone the master disk into the new one. After that, you "lock" the new drive with the same software and done.
Alessandro
Member
I have a 2004 crystal Xbox and it seems everything's okay.
I'd like to get a cheap OG Xbox someday but this scares me a lot.
I love you guys
There's that word again, is there something wrong with the Earth's gravitational pull on the xbox?
I love you guys
Nemesis121
Member
Gotta check my launch xbox, my second xbox was bought in November 2004 gotta check the version number, launch xbox is modded and case customize so it shouldn't take more than 2mins to check it out..
Collecting retro computers and consoles has taught me that those type of capacitors ALL have the danger of leaking/deteriorating.
Even though that particular capacitor on the xbox is the most lightly to leak ANY electrolytic can eventually go that way.The same goes for the batterys other systems used to keep the time.It's just something that goes with old electronics-some components don't last forever.
Got an old gamegear? Screen dim and missing sound? Chances are that the tiny caps in it need replacing (the caps in a gamegear wont leak they just stop working properly).
Power supply smoking on a bbc micro or commodore PET? PSU smoothing capacitor blown.
Even though that particular capacitor on the xbox is the most lightly to leak ANY electrolytic can eventually go that way.The same goes for the batterys other systems used to keep the time.It's just something that goes with old electronics-some components don't last forever.
Got an old gamegear? Screen dim and missing sound? Chances are that the tiny caps in it need replacing (the caps in a gamegear wont leak they just stop working properly).
Power supply smoking on a bbc micro or commodore PET? PSU smoothing capacitor blown.
TeddyShardik
Banned
There was no way in hell this thread wasn't going to end up having Emmet Brown and Back to the Future references, was there?
gregor7777
Banned
Absolutely, yes. That's the correct solution here.
BabyFaceKillah
Member
Paladin CL
Member
I have a Dreamcast, PS1 and Ps2 , do you know if any of those have a time capacitor or something that need to be care of?
loaf of bread
Member
I'm too lazy to do anything about this. I'll let fate decide if my Xbox is meant to die by this.
John Caboose
Member
Phew, my crystal is 1.6 so no need to remove anything.
eXistor
Member
Did you see the video in the OP? I'm an absolute idiot when it comes to stuff like this and I was able to do it no problems, there's literally zero skill involved. I was lucky my dad had the right torque screwdrivers though, otherwise I wouldn't even get past step 1. You don't need a soldering iron or anything.
The pain in the ass comes from finding a compatible hdd since you need to "lock" it for it to run and you can't do that with all hdds. There are a lot of sata hdds that are compatible with the Xbox though and you can simply use one of these adapters:
Use this list to see if your hdd is compatible: http://xboxdrives.x-pec.com/?p=list
Replacing the Hdd is not that hard, there is a tool called Chimp that you run from the Xbox (if it's already softmodded of course). If you have both Hdds connected to the xbox, you can clone the master disk into the new one. After that, you "lock" the new drive with the same software and done.
Awesome. Thanks a lot for the info. I'll dive into it all soon and change out the hard drive. I have two Xboxes, one was a launch model my family won from a Taco Bell giveaway. Still works fine, but its disc drive stopped working years ago.
I'm a little confused. Doesn't that mean the capacitor has to be replaced and not just removed, since it can't function without one? Seems like more work to me.
So many modern capacitors are low quality, this isn't really a surprise. I collect arcade stuff, I have loads of games with caps on them 30 years old, no problem. There are also newer games I have to totally recap as soon as they come through the door because leaks are 'when' not 'if'.
Dr. Black Jack
Member
FWIW it seems like the 1.6s used better capacitors that don't need replacing, at least according to this guy.
The spring on the PS1 optical drive.
I'll just have to go back to the future and fix it.
There was no way in hell this thread wasn't going to end up having Emmet Brown and Back to the Future references, was there?
Who knew, right?
Apparently the capacitors are of better quality. Htye may eventually leak, the problem is that you can't remove it from 1.6 Xboxes, you would need to replace it.
It's very easy.You just need to unscrew the top and there are only 3 screws inside, disconnect the hard drive and the dvd reader, pull them up, locate the capacitor and remove it. Check out the video I have posted.
Armoured Titan
Member
I've just disassembled my Xbox and watching the video posted in the OP at the same time. The layout looks different. I have a UK PAL machine from 2003. In the video it's advised to look for the capacitor Q7G1 which I've located but it doesn't seem like it's a capacitor. I don't know what it's called but it's secured onto the board in a horizontal position. There is a capacitor in the same location specified in the video but it doesn't have the same code designation.
What should I do?
What should I do?
Armoured Titan
Member
Right. So I figured it out and although the numbering looked different it was the same capacitor nonetheless atleast according to another guide that had the same layout as mine.
http://dannygalaga.com/pictures/DSCN0959c.JPG
In this picture in the bottom left hand corner there are 3 capacitors. The one I removed is the capacitor to the right of the big one. I think it's still the same but the layout was slightly different.
Anyway, everything goes accordingly. I'm putting the Xbox back together, screwed everything in and ready to plug in. Well, as soon as I turn the power on, I hear electric noises from the back and the Xbox does actually power on green for a second or atleast the led of the modchip powers on briefly before turning off. I keep on pressing the on/off button but no dice. If I disconnect and wait for a few minutes and try again the same thing happens. Makes an electrical noise, lights up for 1 second and then turns off. I've tried 3 different power leads and the same thing. I don't think it would have had anything to do with the capacitor removal as it was a fairly simple process. The Xbox however hasn't been turned on in many years though. I don't know.
Any Ideas? Really hope it hasn't gone as I used it for retro gaming.
http://dannygalaga.com/pictures/DSCN0959c.JPG
In this picture in the bottom left hand corner there are 3 capacitors. The one I removed is the capacitor to the right of the big one. I think it's still the same but the layout was slightly different.
Anyway, everything goes accordingly. I'm putting the Xbox back together, screwed everything in and ready to plug in. Well, as soon as I turn the power on, I hear electric noises from the back and the Xbox does actually power on green for a second or atleast the led of the modchip powers on briefly before turning off. I keep on pressing the on/off button but no dice. If I disconnect and wait for a few minutes and try again the same thing happens. Makes an electrical noise, lights up for 1 second and then turns off. I've tried 3 different power leads and the same thing. I don't think it would have had anything to do with the capacitor removal as it was a fairly simple process. The Xbox however hasn't been turned on in many years though. I don't know.
Any Ideas? Really hope it hasn't gone as I used it for retro gaming.
grindamasta
Member
Thanks OP! I've removed the capacitor, cleaned it, and it works fine
Would have been good, if you checked that it worked before the disassembly. Was there any leakage on the motherboard from the capacitor? Doesn't sound too good to me. Sounds like it fails some check and powers down.
DidntKnowJack
Member
Quoting myself because after 3 or 4 days of seeing this active thread, I finally said fuck it and gave this a shot.
And...mission accomplished. Never thought I'd be able to successfully do something like this, but I totally did. To be honest, the capacitor looked fine to me, no leakage that i could see, but I pulled it just the same.
Anyway, if I can do this, anyone can. Provided you have that weird screwdriver thing, which I was surprisingly able to find in a toolbox. Kind of proud of myself right now.
Genesis Knight
Member
For one thing, the JSRF on the Sega GT 2002 disc works fine on 1.6 boxes in 480p. That said, if your Xbox can run games off the HDD (softmodded, hardmodded, whatever) you can use a recently-released patched XBE to restore 480p for GunValkyrie and Panzer Dragoon Orta.
HalfwayOrb
Member
Oh great, my Xbox's 1.6.
If it's like a leaky battery, then you need lemon juice or vinegar to neutralize the acid.
If there's a lot of mess, wipe the majority of the mess off. Then dip a Q-tip in lemon juice or vinegar and dab the dirty spot. If it starts fizzing and hissing, then the two kinds of acid are killing each other. Don't breathe the fumes. Keep going until the lemon or vinegar wins, then wipe the remainder off.
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