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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Azzurri

Member
Build will start at the end of next week when the mobo is released.

Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5
Haswell-E 5820k
Crucial Ballistx 16GB DDR4
Corsair 240 Air
2x 970 or 980's don't know yet.
Crucial MX1000 512gb SSD
3TB WD Black HDD
Corsair H100i CPU cooler.
EVGA 1000 G2 PSU
 

LilJoka

Member
Right, but I'm not seeing a menu or option for that. In Disk Management there is no "Format" option anywhere after I select this drive.

I chose to make it MBR when given the option of that or GPT. Do I create "New Simple Volume" first?

Yes initialise the disk to MBR, then create a new simple volume by right clicking the unallocated space.
 

BurningNad

Member
Quoting for new page, would love some feedback! Particularly on the processor.

Hey guys, I'll get straight to it. I'd like to keep my upgrades under $300, max $400 if necessary.

Current PC (using AIDA64 to get this info, as I built it about 3 or 4 years ago, replaced a few parts, don't remember it all offhand):

  • Processor: QuadCore Intel Core i5-750, 3466 MHz (24 x 144)
  • Mobo: Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2 (2 PCI, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
  • Video card: AMD Radeon HD 7870
  • RAM: (Two sticks, 4 GB total) G Skill F3-10666CL8-2GBRM 2 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM
I don't have any SSD's, though I would definitely love to get one.

I would like to be able to play newer games coming out on high settings, if not maxed out, specifically, Evolve. I had a large amount of stuttering on anything but Low settings for it during the Big Alpha.
I would also like to be able to smoothly stream on Twitch or Hitbox. My internet connection can definitely handle it, so it's just down to my hardware.
Now, would an SSD drive and more RAM suffice? Should I look at a new processor? I got the video card a year ago or so, so that should be okay, right?

Any help or guidance would be extremely appreciated! Thanks!
 
Hey guys, would a Noctua NF-P12 be a significant improvement over the stock cooler for a Hyper 212 Evo? Newegg has a stupid good deal for them right now and I've been looking for an opportunity to change out the kind of crappy stock fan that Evo shipped with.
 

rtcn63

Member
Hey guys, would a Noctua NF-P12 be a significant improvement over the stock cooler for a Hyper 212 Evo? Newegg has a stupid good deal for them right now and I've been looking for an opportunity to change out the kind of crappy stock fan that Evo shipped with.

I actually replaced my Evo fan with a NF-F12, after the bearings on the original went to shit. It's a bit louder than the stock fan, but since it didn't make a terrible grinding noise, technically an improvement.
 
I actually replaced my Evo fan with a NF-F12, after the bearings on the original went to shit. It's a bit louder than the stock fan, but since it didn't make a terrible grinding noise, technically an improvement.
I know the NF-F12 would be a definite upgrade over the stock 212 Evo fan, but I'm willing to bite on a lesser Noctua fan if it's a big enough improvement. I just need to know if it is, because on paper, the stock fan with its higher RPM has better CFM than the Noctua, but CFM isn't the end all, be all of fan specs.
 

Ettie

Member
What will she be using the computer for? Games? Worried about wanting to play on high/ultra settings?

The i5 750 is pretty dated - I'm running on pretty much the same hardware. Overclocking that processor will help, but it won't give you the performance of a stock i5 4690K, I think. It's hard to find directly comparable benchmarks for gaming performance.

However.. in games I think the difference won't be too great, I don't think the CPU will be that much of a bottleneck. The i5 2500K is still very serviceable and that was the model that superceded the i5 750, both being quad cores and priced comparatively similarly.

Nothing much is known about how great next year's coming processors will be. There's Broadwell K unlocked processors coming for the current 1150 socket, and Skylake which will be locked and appearing on new socket 1151 Z170/H170 motherboards. It's safe to say that they'll be an improvement over the existing Haswell processors, that's all that I can say.

I think it comes down to how much you want to spend and what your budget is. If you're wary of spending any kind of money, try overclocking first - you should be able to get a decent overclock out of that CPU cooler. I managed 4.2 GHz stable on my i5 750 with the exact same cooler as yours.

If want to spend a bit, you can get the RAM and graphics cards upgrades now. Try them out with the current processor overclocked. If that isn't enough, you can get a new motherboard and CPU and then just move the RAM and graphics card over, as it's all compatible.

Hey, just noticed the Area 88 avatar. Nice.

Just got back to a keyboard, thanks for the reply. I think she's going to wait and do a pretty big upgrade after Skylake. I know high/ultra settings are going to be a priority for her as she spends most of her gaming time on PC, and she's been burned on the incremental upgrade before.

I suck, *suck* at schmups, but I loved U.N. Squadron so much as a kid. Soundtrack pops into my head still, 20 years after I last had a SNES.
 

AHA-Lambda

Member
Hey guys, what's the best way to determine how big a PSU I need is?

This is the PSU I've got:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FG9FWF8/

And my build has:
Intel Core i7 4790K
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970
Corsair CML16GX3M2A1600C9 Vengeance Low Profile 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 Mhz
Asus Z97-PRO WI-FI AC ATX Motherboard
Crucial CT512MX100SSD1 512GB MX100
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (120mm)
Samsung 24x Retail SATA DVD Writer
 

The Llama

Member
Hey guys, what's the best way to determine how big a PSU I need is?

This is the PSU I've got:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FG9FWF8/

And my build has:
Intel Core i7 4790K
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970
Corsair CML16GX3M2A1600C9 Vengeance Low Profile 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 Mhz
Asus Z97-PRO WI-FI AC ATX Motherboard
Crucial CT512MX100SSD1 512GB MX100
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (120mm)
Samsung 24x Retail SATA DVD Writer

That PSU will be fine for that build. Could even handle SLI 970's.
 

RGM79

Member
Kinda late reply (from me, sorry). I guess I'm still having difficulties because I can't find F12, F13, or F14. All it shows about BIOS is that it's an "exclusive UEFI DualBIOS design". And for CPU Support it shows "4th generation Intel Core processors" don't know if they mean the new ones.
Unfortunately, the terminology is pretty confusing. I believe the wording on the boxes of motherboards that support the latest Haswell processors say "new 4th generation Intel Core processors", and that's mostly for H97/Z97 motherboards.

ASRock makes it easy to check the BIOS version from the outside of the motherboard, too bad Gigabyte doesn't. You may have to contact Gigabyte support and see if they have some way of knowing without actually putting the computer together to test it.

My CPU is overheating.

My PC wasn't originally built for gaming, the mobo is a budget microATX Intel one and an i5-2500 with stock cooler.

Now I got a GTX 970, new PSU and case. And suddenly I'm getting popup warnings from Intel Desktop Utilities that my CPU is reaching 88c+ in games.

I guess I need to buy an aftermarket cooler? But until I do that I figured I should rearrange things to try to improve air flow in the case, and maybe clean dust from the CPU heatsinks. But do I need to reapply thermal paste if I remove the fan? Cause I don't have any right now.

90 degrees C while using the stock Intel heatsink is not unheard of. Yes, if you take off the heatsink, you will need to clean off the old thermal paste and reapply new. It's been a while since I bought one, but I think the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (frequently on sale for less than $30) comes with a tube of average thermal paste in the box.

Fuuuuck. MB was what failed on my last PC. How would one test for mb failure? Just rule out everything else?



What do you mean "check sata mode"?



i5 4670 stock
Gigabyte H87 mini itx mobo
2x8gb ddr3 1600 ram
512gb ssd + 3tb hdd
GTX 970
650w PSU


In uefi cpu is 40c or so.
Well, it's not overheating or anything.

In the UEFI menu, there's often settings to change how the SATA controller works. Usually there's the option of AHCI or IDE. AHCI is newer mode that runs faster, IDE is older mode that has better compatibility with older OS like XP. Neither mode should cause your PC to act the way it does, assuming the motherboard isn't broken in some way.

The only thing I know to check a motherboard for is bulging or blown capacitors. That's usually a sign of motherboard death for old motherboards that have seen a lot of use and are worn out. You computer isn't that old, though.

So I thought I might ask here in case anyone has seen this before. I have a PC with an AMD 290x inside connected to an Hdmi switcher. Since hooking it up, I have noticed on occasion some slight artifacts like white snow in small portions of the screen. When this happens most of the time I can simply turn the tv(not pc) off and back on and they go away.

Then two days ago I take my PC out of sleep mode and literally it's like hell is breaking loose. I keep getting an error message stating that the display adapter has failed and there are now artifacts all over the screen. I thought for sure it was the video card, but checked temps and the highest temp was 44. Even after rebooting same artifacts.

So then I decide as a last ditch I would take the switcher off and run straight to the tv. I restarted the computer and it's like nothing ever happened. Its been fine for a few days leading me to believe it was the switcher or cable, but typically seeing that kind of stuff makes me think the card is the culprit. To compound matters I was planning on selling the card soon to buy an nvidia 970 or 980 but I don't want to sell someone a busted card.

Two questions: has anyone seen that happen with a bad cable or switch or is it more likely to be the card even though it stopped showing artifacts? And when I buy a card assuming I can afford both, is a 970 comparable to the 290x or should I buy the 980 for similar performance at 1080p?Not planning on 4k anytime soon.

Thanks!

I've seen graphics cards have artifact-ed output that was fixed by not using adaptors or by using different outputs.

Have you tried using the switch with something else (a game console and TV with HDMI) to see if it's the switch introducing graphical artifacting?
 

RGM79

Member
RGM79 thanks again for the advice earlier. Just ordered the PSU and Asus PA238Q monitor saw it on amazon warehousedeals for £153 said I might as well bite don't mind the lost on warranty. Can't wait to get me system built soon :D

No problem. Enjoy your new monitor.

Need advice- is it safe to use multiple powered external drives (Seagate Backup Plus) with a powered USB hub? I think the ports on my case are faulty. I'm considering this hub (any recommendations would be welcome) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GX4BG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

By "powered external drives" do you mean the external drives have their own power adaptor? If yes, then it's safe because the USB hub and external drives all have their own independent individual power supplies. The external drives won't even be drawing power from the USB hub in that case.

Build will start at the end of next week when the mobo is released.

Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5
Haswell-E 5820k
Crucial Ballistx 16GB DDR4
Corsair 240 Air
2x 970 or 980's don't know yet.
Crucial MX1000 512gb SSD
3TB WD Black HDD
Corsair H100i CPU cooler.
EVGA 1000 G2 PSU

Nice, have you bought any of those parts yet?

Quoting for new page, would love some feedback! Particularly on the processor.

I have a similar processor to yours. I don't think you should see any stuttering, but I haven't played Evolve. If you have a decent CPU cooler, you should be able to overclock up to 4.2GHz if the CPU is your problem. Do you have stuttering in any other game? Try turning down settings.

Your CPU meets the requirements for Evolve, but your graphics card is a bit low, although still in the middle of the minimum and recommended specs. If you intend to play on high settings, you'll likely need a better graphics card.
 

RGM79

Member
Just got back to a keyboard, thanks for the reply. I think she's going to wait and do a pretty big upgrade after Skylake. I know high/ultra settings are going to be a priority for her as she spends most of her gaming time on PC, and she's been burned on the incremental upgrade before.

I suck, *suck* at schmups, but I loved U.N. Squadron so much as a kid. Soundtrack pops into my head still, 20 years after I last had a SNES.

That's the safe choice, can't really go wrong there. In the meantime, overclocking the CPU will help her hold out for the next 6 months or so, if you have a good CPU cooler.

Hey guys, what's the best way to determine how big a PSU I need is?

This is the PSU I've got:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FG9FWF8/

And my build has:
Intel Core i7 4790K
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970
Corsair CML16GX3M2A1600C9 Vengeance Low Profile 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 Mhz
Asus Z97-PRO WI-FI AC ATX Motherboard
Crucial CT512MX100SSD1 512GB MX100
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (120mm)
Samsung 24x Retail SATA DVD Writer

You can use this wattage calculator. You have more than wattage to power those components, just to say.
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
Everything is going fine aside form my goddamn XFX r9 280 not even registering to my computer as having existed. Makes me think I should have just fucking bought a more expensive card.
 

RGM79

Member
Everything is going fine aside form my goddamn XFX r9 280 not even registering to my computer as having existed. Makes me think I should have just fucking bought a more expensive card.

Make sure your graphics card is slotted in all the way. I had one out of two of my R9 270X cards not even be detected because it wasn't plugged in properly, there was ~5mm left to go.

PCI-E power cables plugged in? It needs an 8 pin and a 6 pin power cable.
 

garath

Member
Quoting for new page, would love some feedback! Particularly on the processor.

Your best bet is a new video card. That will be the only improvement for 300-400 that will make any appreciable difference in gaming performance.

970 is the best price to performance card right now and easily twice as powerful as your 7850.

You could also use another 4 gigs of ram. I generally see 5-6gigs of my 8 system consumed during gaming.

An SSD would be the least impactful gaming upgrade.
 

BurningNad

Member
Get a 970.

I have a similar processor to yours. I don't think you should see any stuttering, but I haven't played Evolve. If you have a decent CPU cooler, you should be able to overclock up to 4.2GHz if the CPU is your problem. Do you have stuttering in any other game? Try turning down settings.

Your CPU meets the requirements for Evolve, but your graphics card is a bit low, although still in the middle of the minimum and recommended specs. If you intend to play on high settings, you'll likely need a better graphics card.

Thanks. I've never had any luck overclocking this processor, though admittedly I'm not 100% sure I'm following the proper process. I guess I'll look into a guide for it and see what I can do. Using the stock HS and fan, though. I can run most games at medium-high with 45+ fps, but Evolve was just downright unplayable at those settings. Granted, it was an alpha, but still.

Your best bet is a new video card. That will be the only improvement for 300-400 that will make any appreciable difference in gaming performance.

970 is the best price to performance card right now and easily twice as powerful as your 7850.

You could also use another 4 gigs of ram. I generally see 5-6gigs of my 8 system consumed during gaming.

An SSD would be the least impactful gaming upgrade.

SSD would be the least? Seriously? Wow. Okay then, I guess the first thing I'll get is the video card. Thank you!
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
Make sure your graphics card is slotted in all the way. I had one out of two of my R9 270X cards not even be detected because it wasn't plugged in properly, there was ~5mm left to go.

PCI-E power cables plugged in? It needs an 8 pin and a 6 pin power cable.

Yeah, I think I've done all of this right. I dunno what the problem is. I checked the power, intalled new drivers for my MOBO... I'm running out of ideas.
 
Well, it's not overheating or anything.

In the UEFI menu, there's often settings to change how the SATA controller works. Usually there's the option of AHCI or IDE. AHCI is newer mode that runs faster, IDE is older mode that has better compatibility with older OS like XP. Neither mode should cause your PC to act the way it does, assuming the motherboard isn't broken in some way.

The only thing I know to check a motherboard for is bulging or blown capacitors. That's usually a sign of motherboard death for old motherboards that have seen a lot of use and are worn out. You computer isn't that old, though.

Yeah no kidding, the whole thing is <2 years old. I'm going to try checking the Sata connections on the Mobo to make sure the cables are in right and such. Would there be any good way of telling whether or not the cables might be at fault without having a spare to swap?

It's only a 10 dollar part probably but I'd have to ride into town to get it.
 
Within six weeks I should get the i7 4790k and then in the middle of January the 970 will be mines, might just go to micro center to pick that up, is there any special shit I should do when switching my cpu and gpu
 

Ashhong

Member
Coming from 2x 27 inch monitors, I'd thought I'd hate it but it's not bad. Most games such the native resolution and those that don't you just have two black bars which isn't that bad off. Sadly those games that don't support the resolution end up being stretched.

Productivity-wise, it's a lot better. No bezels in my way and using the Windows key + arrows, I can especially move windows to either side and it makes a world of difference. I have zero plans of going back to 2x monitors and I've been using this monitors for 2 weeks now.

With two 27" monitors you had much more horizontal space, but your productivity is better now? The only benefit I can really see is the lack of the bezel if you wanted to do full screen stuff
 

Ashhong

Member
SSD would be the least? Seriously? Wow. Okay then, I guess the first thing I'll get is the video card. Thank you!

SSD will make ur games load much faster. But I don't think that's your main priority :p

Yeah, I think I've done all of this right. I dunno what the problem is. I checked the power, intalled new drivers for my MOBO... I'm running out of ideas.

Have you completely reseated it? Do the fans turn on? Any red lights come on the gpu itself?

Edit: oops, on a phone and forgot to simply edit into my first post
 

Yusaku

Member
SSD would be the least? Seriously? Wow. Okay then, I guess the first thing I'll get is the video card. Thank you!

SSD is a nice quality of life thing, but really does nothing for games outside of loading times. I don't even put games on my SSD unless the loading times are annoying.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks. I've never had any luck overclocking this processor, though admittedly I'm not 100% sure I'm following the proper process. I guess I'll look into a guide for it and see what I can do. Using the stock HS and fan, though. I can run most games at medium-high with 45+ fps, but Evolve was just downright unplayable at those settings. Granted, it was an alpha, but still.



SSD would be the least? Seriously? Wow. Okay then, I guess the first thing I'll get is the video card. Thank you!

You won't get any good results trying to overclock with the stock Intel cooler, I'm afraid. You'll need to invest $30 or so into a budget CPU cooler.

Yeah.. SSDs have massive read/write speed benefits, but they don't actually improve framerate. Once the game is loaded into memory, it's up to the processor and graphics card to work on framerate.

Yeah, I think I've done all of this right. I dunno what the problem is. I checked the power, intalled new drivers for my MOBO... I'm running out of ideas.

I don't suppose you have another computer to swap and test parts with? It's hard to check parts for problems unless the issue is really obvious. For me at least, troubleshooting hardware consists of eliminating possible issues until something is found.

Do the graphics card's fans spin up, at least?

Yeah no kidding, the whole thing is <2 years old. I'm going to try checking the Sata connections on the Mobo to make sure the cables are in right and such. Would there be any good way of telling whether or not the cables might be at fault without having a spare to swap?

It's only a 10 dollar part probably but I'd have to ride into town to get it.

I've only known SATA cables to break on the connector. Your motherboard should have come with at least two SATA cables in the box, possibly more. You're sure you have no spares?

Within six weeks I should get the i7 4790k and then in the middle of January the 970 will be mines, might just go to micro center to pick that up, is there any special shit I should do when switching my cpu and gpu

For changing the CPU? Nothing is required. Maybe pick up some thermal paste if you don't already have it, but that's not required if you're just using the stock Intel CPU cooler which already has thermal paste pre-applied.

For changing the graphics card, it's recommended to use Display Driver Uninstaller to remove any chance of old driver and software conflicts. It's easy to use, the program is essentially guided. Just download the new drivers, run DDU to remove the old drivers, take out the old graphics card, put in the new one, and then install the new drivers.
 
For changing the CPU? Nothing is required. Maybe pick up some thermal paste if you don't already have it, but that's not required if you're just using the stock Intel CPU cooler which already has thermal paste pre-applied.

For changing the graphics card, it's recommended to use Display Driver Uninstaller to remove any chance of old driver and software conflicts. It's easy to use, the program is essentially guided. Just download the new drivers, run DDU to remove the old drivers, take out the old graphics card, put in the new one, and then install the new drivers.


Thank you and if I'm just running stock do I need a cpu cooler or can I just use the stock cooler ?
 

BurningNad

Member
You won't get any good results trying to overclock with the stock Intel cooler, I'm afraid. You'll need to invest $30 or so into a budget CPU cooler.

Yeah.. SSDs have massive read/write speed benefits, but they don't actually improve framerate. Once the game is loaded into memory, it's up to the processor and graphics card to work on framerate.

SSD is a nice quality of life thing, but really does nothing for games outside of loading times. I don't even put games on my SSD unless the loading times are annoying.

SSD will make ur games load much faster. But I don't think that's your main priority :p
Thanks all! Before posting this I was very close to grabbing an SSD. Glad I can put that on the backburner for now!
 

The Llama

Member
Thanks all! Before posting this I was very close to grabbing an SSD. Glad I can put that on the backburner for now!

Honestly though, if you can in any way at all afford it, get an SSD. It makes a massive, massive improvement on the general use of your computer. It just makes everything so much smoother. Yeah, it won't really make things any better once you're in a game (outside of better loading times if the game is installed on the SSD), but everything else is so much better.
 
I've only known SATA cables to break on the connector. Your motherboard should have come with at least two SATA cables in the box, possibly more. You're sure you have no spares?

Ok I had 2 6gb/s cables. Plugged them in to replace the existing ones... still boots slowly.

Fark.

At least this latest install seems stable so far... I guess.

:(

Going to try unplugging the HDD to see if that's a theoretical problem.

Edit: OMG IT IS RESPONSIVE NOW.

What the fuck?

Could it be trying to boot from that and lagging? How could a formatted HDD cause this?
 

Cabal

Member
Run the OCCT GPU test with Error Check enabled to test the GPU for artifacting. This could be either a GPU memory failure or a HDCP issue with the HDMI Switcher. Could also be a bad quality cable, insufficient bandwidth possibly if the cable is of considerable length 5m+.

Oddly enough a mate had a similar issue with a particular version of nVidia drivers on his GTX 760, so try a different AMD Driver version with the switch attached.

I'll try this and see what comes of it.

I've seen graphics cards have artifact-ed output that was fixed by not using adaptors or by using different outputs.

Have you tried using the switch with something else (a game console and TV with HDMI) to see if it's the switch introducing graphical artifacting?

Well it was also hooked to a ps4 but I never noticed anything on that. I think once in a blue moon it would bitch about HDCP but that's about it. That said I played several games today with no issues. I may just hook the switch to another hdmi port and leave this port dedicated to PC for now.
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
I'm a fucking idiot. The connector from the GPU to th power supply (not the part connected to the card) wasn't plugged all the way in. Wife is playing GoT as we speak.

The AMD Catalyst software had a lot of graphical options... I'll have to research something
 

RGM79

Member
Ok I had 2 6gb/s cables. Plugged them in to replace the existing ones... still boots slowly.

Fark.

At least this latest install seems stable so far... I guess.

:(

Going to try unplugging the HDD to see if that's a theoretical problem.

Edit: OMG IT IS RESPONSIVE NOW.

What the fuck?

Could it be trying to boot from that and lagging? How could a formatted HDD cause this?
I have no idea. Best leave that hard drive unplugged. Back it up if you can, and run CrystalDiskInfo to read the SMART data off it, it might be dying.

I'm a fucking idiot. The connector from the GPU to th power supply (not the part connected to the card) wasn't plugged all the way in. Wife is playing GoT as we speak.

The AMD Catalyst software had a lot of graphical options... I'll have to research something

Well, at least the card wasn't DOA.
 
I have no idea. Best leave that hard drive unplugged. Back it up if you can, and run CrystalDiskInfo to read the SMART data off it, it might be dying.

There's no need to back it up, there's no data on it (I copied it all off last week when I originally started trying to format). I'm currenting doing a "full format" (not quick format) and seeing if that prevents the issue from recurring. It seems that some people have reported something vaguely similar to this symptom:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/289940-32-just-installed-works-slows-system-down

It's going to take a while to finish. And honestly this whole saga has been confusing AF. No idea how all the pieces fit together in my head. It's possible it was several related or even unrelated issues :S
 
I got a new SSD (240GB Crucial M500) and I want to transfer everything on my 500GB HDD to it, including the OS. The HDD is only using 220GB now so it should defnitely fit after I move my pictures to an external. What is the best method of doing this?
 

RGM79

Member
I got a new SSD (240GB Crucial M500) and I want to transfer everything on my 500GB HDD to it, including the OS. The HDD is only using 220GB now so it should defnitely fit after I move my pictures to an external. What is the best method of doing this?

Here's some guides on cloning hard drives to SSDs.

http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Crucial-SSDs/Cloning-using-Acronis-True-Image-HD/ta-p/125596
http://www.howtogeek.com/199068/how-to-upgrade-your-existing-hard-drive-in-under-an-hour/
http://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/
 

Ashhong

Member
Correct me if I'm wrong but an ssd advertised as 240 will not have 240 will it? Is cloning from a hdd to an ssd smart? What with fragmentation and all on the original
 

RGM79

Member
Correct me if I'm wrong but an ssd advertised as 240 will not have 240 will it? Is cloning from a hdd to an ssd smart? What with fragmentation and all on the original

Er, that depends, on both the idiotic practice of using 1000 rather than 1024, as well as SSD over-provisioning. Here's some reading material if you're interested.

http://www.edn.com/design/systems-design/4404566/Understanding-SSD-over-provisioning (first page is adequate)
http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2012/02/27/lsi-boosts-ssd-capacities/
www.overclock.net/t/1179518/seans-ssd-buyers-guide-information-thread (Ctrl+F "overprovisioning")

Anyway, to keep it simple, you can pretty much treat 240GB/250GB/256GB SSDs as being more or less the same thing, just differently labeled according to manufacturer.. unless you really want that extra bit of storage.

Access speed is uniformly fast for all data on a SSD. Doesn't matter if the data was fragmented or defragmented before being cloned over to the SSD. Lots of companies sell SSDs in a bundle with drive cloning software.
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
So... that was my first time playing on the PC since Age of Empires II... Just watched my wife play GoT and we took turns with Alien Isolation... AWESOME!

This is great. Played Alien at "ultra" and never noticed any slowdown. Really fun. Thanks for the patience and guidance guys.

I'll have to get used to steam and who knows what sort of upgrade path I should take, but hopefully I can get A LOT of bang out of my buck. Hell, I've already started making my extra money back in steam sales.
 

Lagamorph

Member
Ok, time for final tweaks since I'm going to be ordering the parts on Monday,

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.50 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£119.96 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory (£123.99 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£122.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£52.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£265.95 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case (£62.87 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£87.60 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer (£11.89 @ CCL Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£72.35 @ Aria PC)
Total: £1088.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available


Any further recommendations on the hardware side of things?
In terms of the 970 which is generally considered to be the best one to go for?
 

vmartin

Neo Member
Syber Vapor Extreme or Haswell-E 5930K/GTX 980 custom build. Gahhh decisions, decisions. Good thing I have 10 weeks to decide.

Damn my addiction to the mini-ITX form factor.
 

Shaldome

Member
Damn Americans for inventing Black Friday sales and the Europeans for copying it. Because of them I now have a new monitor...


Now I am thinking of a second 980, but for now I think one will do.

In some games GSync feels strange though. Like, if I move the camera it looks like the game runs in low fps instead of the 70 fps it actually runs.
 

RGM79

Member
Ok, time for final tweaks since I'm going to be ordering the parts on Monday,

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.50 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£119.96 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory (£123.99 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£122.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£52.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£265.95 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case (£62.87 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£87.60 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer (£11.89 @ CCL Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£72.35 @ Aria PC)
Total: £1088.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available


Any further recommendations on the hardware side of things?
In terms of the 970 which is generally considered to be the best one to go for?

You could get a CPU cooler as well. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is an excellent budget cooler for £25. If you don't mind going for a higher end cooler, you could get the Noctua NH-D14 for £65, or the slightly better Noctua NH-D15 for £75, both being very well regarded as high end CPU coolers.

As for the GTX 970, I believe the EVGA FTW ACX 2.0 and the Gigabyte G1 Gaming are the best contenders.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1516121/gtx-970-comparison-strix-vs-msi-gaming-vs-gigabyte-g1
 

LilJoka

Member
G1 and MSI gamer are the two 970s to consider.
G1 1500-1600mhz overclock, slightly noisier.
Msi gamer 1500mhz overclock silent.
Both can run modded bios.
 

FillerB

Member
Been a long, long, time since I've done any "real" PC gaming and as my laptop is ever so slowly inching towards its grave it's time to upgrade to a desktop.

As such I currently got the following list.

Code:
Case		Fractal Design R4
Motherboard	MSI H97 Guard-Pro
CPU		Intel Core i5-4460
CPU Fan		Gelid Solutions Tranquillo Rev.2
Graphics card	Asus STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5
RAM		Crucial Ballistix Tactical BLT2C4G3D1608ET3LX0CEU (2x4GB)
SSD		Crucial MX100 256GB
HDD		WD Blue WD10EZEX, 1TB
Power supply	Seasonic M12II Evo 520W

Yes? No? Any changes I should consider before breaking open the piggy bank? I'm not really interested into overclocking so I kept it non-K but I would like some sweet 1080p action at high settings for at least the coming 3 years. You guys think this is enough to achieve that?

If recommending stuff, do consider that I'm from the Netherlands so awesome deals on sites like Amazon and Newegg can get less so when considering shipping costs.
 

Vizzeh

Banned
Anyone see benifit in an additional 980GTX inSLI on a Asus MX27 5ms IPS monitor 1080p (oc'd to 74hz)?

Waiting for a 120/144 gsync IPS (with good response) to run alongside the above, at which point a better Single-unit gfx card could be out.
 

LilJoka

Member
Been a long, long, time since I've done any "real" PC gaming and as my laptop is ever so slowly inching towards its grave it's time to upgrade to a desktop.

As such I currently got the following list.

Code:
Case		Fractal Design R4
Motherboard	MSI H97 Guard-Pro
CPU		Intel Core i5-4460
CPU Fan		Gelid Solutions Tranquillo Rev.2
Graphics card	Asus STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5
RAM		Crucial Ballistix Tactical BLT2C4G3D1608ET3LX0CEU (2x4GB)
SSD		Crucial MX100 256GB
HDD		WD Blue WD10EZEX, 1TB
Power supply	Seasonic M12II Evo 520W

Yes? No? Any changes I should consider before breaking open the piggy bank? I'm not really interested into overclocking so I kept it non-K but I would like some sweet 1080p action at high settings for at least the coming 3 years. You guys think this is enough to achieve that?

If recommending stuff, do consider that I'm from the Netherlands so awesome deals on sites like Amazon and Newegg can get less so when considering shipping costs.

What sites do you use? What's the budget? Consider going mitx or matx? I tend not to recommend the Asus 970 since asus used the lowest internal clocks (hidden) compared to the competition.
 

riflen

Member
Damn Americans for inventing Black Friday sales and the Europeans for copying it. Because of them I now have a new monitor...



Now I am thinking of a second 980, but for now I think one will do.

In some games GSync feels strange though. Like, if I move the camera it looks like the game runs in low fps instead of the 70 fps it actually runs.

This isn't normal. What games? Are you sure G-Sync mode is active? The monitor's status led will be red in G-Sync mode. Also ensure VSync is disabled in the game.
 

RGM79

Member
Been a long, long, time since I've done any "real" PC gaming and as my laptop is ever so slowly inching towards its grave it's time to upgrade to a desktop.

As such I currently got the following list.

Code:
Case		Fractal Design R4
Motherboard	MSI H97 Guard-Pro
CPU		Intel Core i5-4460
CPU Fan		Gelid Solutions Tranquillo Rev.2
Graphics card	Asus STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5
RAM		Crucial Ballistix Tactical BLT2C4G3D1608ET3LX0CEU (2x4GB)
SSD		Crucial MX100 256GB
HDD		WD Blue WD10EZEX, 1TB
Power supply	Seasonic M12II Evo 520W

Yes? No? Any changes I should consider before breaking open the piggy bank? I'm not really interested into overclocking so I kept it non-K but I would like some sweet 1080p action at high settings for at least the coming 3 years. You guys think this is enough to achieve that?

If recommending stuff, do consider that I'm from the Netherlands so awesome deals on sites like Amazon and Newegg can get less so when considering shipping costs.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with computer parts retailers in the Netherlands. Thank you for informing us, though. Is there a certain store that you think you'll do most of your parts shopping from? What's your budget?
 

Shaldome

Member
This isn't normal. What games? Are you sure G-Sync mode is active? The monitor's status led will be red in G-Sync mode. Also ensure VSync is disabled in the game.

I have G-Sync on globally in the Nvidia control panel and VSync off in games where it is available. Example where the game feels off is Watch Dogs and The Secret World.
In X- Rebirth it seems fine. I do not know what exactly it is.
 

FillerB

Member
What sites do you use? What's the budget? Consider going mitx or matx? I tend not to recommend the Asus 970 since asus used the lowest internal clocks (hidden) compared to the competition.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with computer parts retailers in the Netherlands. Thank you for informing us, though. Is there a certain store that you think you'll do most of your parts shopping from? What's your budget?

Budget is probably going to be around the €1000

That build (minus the case) clocks in at €880 spread out over https://www.megekko.nl/ , http://www.4allshop.nl/ and https://afuture.nl/ .

I considered a Node 304 build similiar to the one listed here but I've been able to get the R4 on the cheap from someone upgrading to the R5.
 

Akito

Member
I need some help here guys. I'm currently building my first PC and I thought it went pretty well, except the damn thing won't stay on for more than 5 seconds, it just reboots itself over and over again. I've unplugged pretty much everything from the mainboard sans cpu and its fan but it didn't change anything, same for replugging the cpu. Here are my specs, is there a bottleneck somewhere?

- Intel Core i5-4460 Boxed
- Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H
- Sapphire Radeon R9 280X Tri-X OC 3072MB GDDR5
- 8GB Crucial 1600MHz CL9
- Sharkoon WPM500 V2 500W ATX
- Crucial MX100 256GB
 
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