• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

Status
Not open for further replies.

Apt101

Member
Bit of a scare. In the middle of playing my system went blank. Trying to start it up resulted in no post. Turns out I did a poor job of cabling and a little corner blocked the CPU fan. Whew. I just dumped like $450 into this baby and spent part of my day off reinstalling Windows.
 
Got into the BIOS, that wasn't it.

I thought it might have something to do with the sensors for temperature, voltage etc. since starting Aida64 would theoretically activate those, but I'm able to open other benchmarking tools, and I can actually use Aida64 fine if I open it before I switch out to the GPU... it's the opening part that makes it crash, and I think there's a clue in that to whatever the problem is. I'm not smart enough to figure it out though.

Going to try a CMOS reset before anything else, there still might be a pesky setting somewhere. It must be something like that if I'm able to use the card fully once I'm actually booted.

I had a similar problem on my old PC, Coretemp would crash Windows when trying to load but Speedfan didn't cause any problems, it was a Z67 motherboard. I ended up just giving up and running Speedfan instead. Hopefully you can figure it out!
 
- I play with one primary monitor with games, and two auxiliary, so 3 total.
- I'm playing at 1080p, with no intention of going higher than that until 4K becomes more reasonable.

At 1080, you'll be crushing everything no matter what. You could probably leave everything in that control panel alone and still hit triple digit fps in most games and rarely (if ever) drop below 60 in even the most demanding games.

Still, I know how fun it is to tinker with stuff
 

xBladeM6x

Member
At 1080, you'll be crushing everything no matter what. You could probably leave everything in that control panel alone and still hit triple digit fps in most games and rarely (if ever) drop below 60 in even the most demanding games.

Still, I know how fun it is to tinker with stuff

As much as I want to say, yes I will decimate all games, it seems that's not the case. Games like Assassin's Creed Liberation, and Watch Dogs seem to work better, but are still shit if you're trying to play them @ 60 FPS. Like, I'm happy I have this new card, but also disappointed by the fact that I can so glaringly see how unoptimized some of these games are now, and how no amount power will help that.
 
I'd really appreciate some help with something.

Like I said I want to jump on a deal I saw for a R9 280x (current GPU is a 6850) but I'm wondering if I'm going to be fine with a 500w psu and a DH67BL mobo.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm aware that 500w is cutting it close. CPU is a 2600k currently at stock speed.

The 280x is an asus direct cu II top.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'd really appreciate some help with something.

Like I said I want to jump on a deal I saw for a R9 280x (current GPU is a 6850) but I'm wondering if I'm going to be fine with a 500w psu and a DH67BL mobo.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm aware that 500w is cutting it close. CPU is a 2600k currently at stock speed.

The 280x is an asus direct cu II top.
If it's a recent 80+ unit from a major brand you'll be ok running it stock. Check PCI-E power connectors you may need something extra.
 

Rafy

Member
I'd really appreciate some help with something.

Like I said I want to jump on a deal I saw for a R9 280x (current GPU is a 6850) but I'm wondering if I'm going to be fine with a 500w psu and a DH67BL mobo.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm aware that 500w is cutting it close. CPU is a 2600k currently at stock speed.

The 280x is an asus direct cu II top.

The Asus DCUII had some issues if I remember correctly. Something about the cooler not fitting quite well and not cooling properly the GPU and VRMs. I suggest you look it up.
 
I'd really appreciate some help with something.

Like I said I want to jump on a deal I saw for a R9 280x (current GPU is a 6850) but I'm wondering if I'm going to be fine with a 500w psu and a DH67BL mobo.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm aware that 500w is cutting it close. CPU is a 2600k currently at stock speed.

The 280x is an asus direct cu II top.

I think you'll be ok but I'd recommend the XFX 280X. I remember the ASUS eventually became whiny in some reviews and the cooler had some problems. If you look up new xfx 280x's on eBay, you'll find some good deals. My friend just got one for $200 flat brand new and unopened. When I got mine, I got it for $230 and it was the black edition also new and unopened. eBay seems great for xfx 280x deals.
 
The Asus DCUII had some issues if I remember correctly. Something about the cooler not fitting quite well and not cooling properly the GPU and VRMs. I suggest you look it up.

I think you'll be ok but I'd recommend the XFX 280X. I remember the ASUS eventually became whiny in some reviews and the cooler had some problems. If you look up new xfx 280x's on eBay, you'll find some good deals. My friend just got one for $200 flat brand new and unopened. When I got mine, I got it for $230 and it was the black edition also new and unopened. eBay seems great for xfx 280x deals.

Thanks guys. I didn't realize how damn big this gpu is (28.7 cm for this specific model), I don't think it fits in my case lol which seems to only fit 28 cm tops.
I'll look up the model you mentioned halo, wasn't aware of those issues, shame.
I'll look around on ebay.
 

Godan

Member
So I just build a new pc about 6 months ago.

Specs:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz ( I have OC'd this to 4.2GHz )
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H ATX LGA1150
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked Video Card
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply


I am going to get another 8GB Ram next month.

What I needs advice for is how big of an upgrade would it be for me to replace my video card with a 980? So far I can run anything I have tried on it but with The Witcher 3 coming out early 2015 I feel that I may not have enough to run it the way I would like to.

Should I maybe just hold off till they maybe release a 980ti version of it?
 

Addnan

Member
If you only want to upgrade for Witcher 3 then wait for Witcher 3. The 980 is a bump over the 780 but not worth taking a loss at especially now that the resale value of the 780 is just about to tank.
 

Ashes

Banned
That Samsung 840 EVO bug means I can get a second hand 500gb for £120...
Thinking about chancing it and getting in on that.
 
So I've lucked into a scenario where my department is willing to buy me a new home PC, buuuuut

(a) it has to be a Dell due to some contract the school has w/ Dell
(b) I obviously can't ask for the "Alienware Ultra-Gamer Mountain Dew Edition" with a straight face.

They know I need a beefy machine since my studies require me to do video editing for stimuli, so I can probably ask for a $1200-1500 machine (w/o monitor) and they won't blink. I'm also more than willing to buy a nice graphics card myself after the machine is delivered if necessary.

Looking at the Dell site, it seems one of the biggest problems are the power supplies are weaksauce and the consumer cases look like they have crap airflow. I don't think *anything* non-Alienware on their "home" side can handle the power draw of top-end cards (I think 450w is as big as their power supplies go non-Alienware). Although maybe I can swap power supplies in the XPS 8700... maybe?

So.... what about the "work" side? That Dell Precision T3610 workstation seems like it might be able to be repurposed into a gaming machine pretty easily (you can throw a 685w power supply in it, expandable, etc). The only problem is now we have all these "business" components and i'm not sure how they map onto the consumer parts i'm more familiar with (Xeon? Quadro?)

Any advice? Is this doable? Is there anything on the "home" side that's remotely worthwhile? Or as a last ditch option Is there a way to "buy" a PC from Dell then salvage the majority of parts into a personal custom build and save a bunch of cash in the process? Or will it basically be only the RAM and hard drives that are useable?
 
Just ran into a completely dumbfounding problem with Windows 8/8.1 I didn't know existed.

Some of you may know that I'm moving overseas soon and have shipped several things ahead of me. This means that I'm now using my PC connected to a 720p TV.

Apparently in their great wisdom Microsoft decided that none of their apps would work at this resolution. They give an error that my resolution is too low to display the app and I need to use a higher res. My TV will not support any higher resolutions other than jumping all the way to 1080 which I can't do using the VGA cable I hung on to in order to be able to connect my PC to the TV...

Now here's the kicker, If I REDUCE my resolution lower that 720p, all of the apps work. but increasing it to 720 says the resolution isn't high enough to display them...

After some quick Googling it looks like Microsoft simply chose not to support the 720p resolution, which is even weirder considering that if you have dual monitors hooked up everything displays just fine on a 720p screen/resolution as long as the second unused monitor is set at a different res... It looks as though they made a conscious decision to force people/business to upgrade their 720 projectors/TV solutions by locking their apps. I discovered it when I needed to open a PDF for work and couldn't until I dropped to a lower res...

I guess I'll just chalk this up to another reason I hope Linux continues to gain traction/support...
 

LilJoka

Member
Just ran into a completely dumbfounding problem with Windows 8/8.1 I didn't know existed.

Some of you may know that I'm moving overseas soon and have shipped several things ahead of me. This means that I'm now using my PC connected to a 720p TV.

Apparently in their great wisdom Microsoft decided that none of their apps would work at this resolution. They give an error that my resolution is too low to display the app and I need to use a higher res. My TV will not support any higher resolutions other than jumping all the way to 1080 which I can't do using the VGA cable I hung on to in order to be able to connect my PC to the TV...

Now here's the kicker, If I REDUCE my resolution lower that 720p, all of the apps work. but increasing it to 720 says the resolution isn't high enough to display them...

After some quick Googling it looks like Microsoft simply chose not to support the 720p resolution, which is even weirder considering that if you have dual monitors hooked up everything displays just fine on a 720p screen/resolution as long as the second unused monitor is set at a different res... It looks as though they made a conscious decision to force people/business to upgrade their 720 projectors/TV solutions by locking their apps. I discovered it when I needed to open a PDF for work and couldn't until I dropped to a lower res...

I guess I'll just chalk this up to another reason I hope Linux continues to gain traction/support...

Windows 7 seems like a good solution?
 

ricki42

Member
The problem is that Win7 is still Microsoft. You're still supporting the people that make these types of decisions and outside of this very odd situation 8.1 is the better OS.

Simple answer: use Linux :)
Obviously not without problems either, but at least you don't have MS just deciding they know best how you should use your PC.
 
Simple answer: use Linux :)
Obviously not without problems either, but at least you don't have MS just deciding they know best how you should use your PC.
I used Linux for a while but driver support just isn't there yet and I've lost faith that Valve can make a difference on this front.
 

Smokey

Member
Got around to sending in my Titan Black for RMA last week. It's been sitting in the closet for awhile I've just been too lazy to send it in. Received new unit yesterday. EVGA really is the best in that area. Just a hassle free experience.

Back up and running full steam with the Tri Sli config. Everything is going ok so far. I really need to go water for this but in the meantime I've been setting the temp limit at 88c and not giving a fuu.

Need to lock down a OC for my 4930k . Thought I was doing ok at 4.4 but my machine literally hard crashed twice yesterday. So much that it wouldn't even post. Had to flip PSU switch off/on to even get into BIOS. Immediately switched back to default settings. Running at 4.2 via the push button on the OC panel. Might just stay there :x
 
Got around to sending in my Titan Black for RMA last week. It's been sitting in the closet for awhile I've just been too lazy to send it in. Received new unit yesterday. EVGA really is the best in that area. Just a hassle free experience.

Back up and running full steam with the Tri Sli config. Everything is going ok so far. I really need to go water for this but in the meantime I've been setting the temp limit at 88c and not giving a fuu.

Need to lock down a OC for my 4930k . Thought I was doing ok at 4.4 but my machine literally hard crashed twice yesterday. So much that it wouldn't even boot. Had to flip PSU switch off/on to even get into BIOS. Immediately switched back to default settings. Running at 4.2 via the push button on the OC panel. Might just stay there :x

You should be doing a manual OC to get the best out of your cpu. I don't trust those auto-overclock programs at all.
 

Smokey

Member
You should be doing a manual OC to get the best out of your cpu. I don't trust those auto-overclock programs at all.

I know. I was doing manual testing at 4.4 when I had some crashes.

This a button that is pressed on the panel that can change settings on the fly. One of the perks of my board (rampage iv black edition )is the ability to change the OC and other settings on the fly without having to go into BIOS. I've monitored the voltage and it was actually pretty low 1.2v-1.3v @ 4.2

I know what you're talking about. Some of the programs with 'extreme' OC will pretty much cook your system. This isn't like that. Very handy to let the system run at its standard speed when it's not needed and then get it to 4.2 at push of a button when I do.
 
When might the XB280HK reviews start popping out? Have the spare cash to get a monitor now and it comes out right before my birthday so I'd feel comfortable spending it :p Still can't decide between the Swift, XB, or one of the ultrawide sets. Latter don't have gsync though so I'll probably wait on those until later as a secondary monitor.

Either way I should probably get a second 780Ti at some point so I can actually use the monitors in question. I've starting chasing the unobtainable ;-;
 
It wasn't enought to upgrade my case, motherboard, and CPU (i7-4770k) last May, now I had to go and buy a QNIX QX2710 1440P monitor and a GTX 980 to replace my GTX 680, just to make sure I could push the resolution.

Now... how to hide the graphics card purchase from my wife.
 

Smokey

Member
When might the XB280HK reviews start popping out? Have the spare cash to get a monitor now and it comes out right before my birthday so I'd feel comfortable spending it :p Still can't decide between the Swift, XB, or one of the ultrawide sets. Latter don't have gsync though so I'll probably wait on those until later as a secondary monitor.

Either way I should probably get a second 780Ti at some point so I can actually use the monitors in question. I've starting chasing the unobtainable ;-;

Been waiting for XB280HK myself. Found this review from pcper yesterday http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Displays/Acer-XB280HK-28-4K-G-Sync-Monitor-Review
 

knitoe

Member
I know. I was doing manual testing at 4.4 when I had some crashes.

This a button that is pressed on the panel that can change settings on the fly. One of the perks of my board (rampage iv black edition )is the ability to change the OC and other settings on the fly without having to go into BIOS. I've monitored the voltage and it was actually pretty low 1.2v-1.3v @ 4.2

I know what you're talking about. Some of the programs with 'extreme' OC will pretty much cook your system. This isn't like that. Very handy to let the system run at its standard speed when it's not needed and then get it to 4.2 at push of a button when I do.
The auto OCs usually provide more voltage then need. Once you know what the auto uses, you can manually start from there and go lower. And, of course, 4.2 should require less voltage than 4.4.
 

Smokey

Member
The auto OCs usually provide more voltage then need. Once you know what the auto uses, you can manually start from there and go lower. And, of course, 4.2 should require less voltage than 4.4.

Well yeah it should obviously. My point being that this particular version of 'auto OCing' doesn't produce results that may be harmful to the board in the long run. Some of the auto OC software that I've seen in the past will use something ridiculous like 1.4v+ for 4.3 clock. It's not doing that here.
 

Prez

Member
Can I get rid of all the fans in the case if I use an AMD 5350 or are they still important for air flow and cooling the HDD?

Hard to find a suitable PSU. This set-up shouldn't go over 100W but the lowest I can find is 350W. It would work fine but supposedly these PSUs aren't very efficient at such a low wattage?
 
That sounds odd. Modern ui apps work fine on my girlfriends ultra book and it's 1366x768.

That's a whole 48 pixels more.


If I choose 1280x720, there is a warning saying that some apps won't work in a resolution lower than 1024x768.
Yep, but the apps work just fine at 1280x720 if you have a second screen connected at a different resolution that you aren't using. Or of you drop from 1280x720 down to 1024x768.

My TV doesn't register 1366x768 or 1280x768, I just get a blue screen. So my only option is 4:3 1024x768 if I need to open any apps. Eh, I can deal with it for a couple of weeks, I just think it's really shitty the Microsoft would force an end of support for a resolution that the apps have no issue running at.
 

appaws

Banned
So I'm having a bit of a dilemma. Right now my PS4 is my primary gaming system and I intend it to the stay that way for the foreseeable future. I have a gaming PC that I originally built in 2009, though I've upgraded the processor, RAM, and graphics card since then. However lately it has been giving me problems and as soon as I fix one another seems to crop up (current issue is my 560 Ti is getting upwards of 90 c under load, compared to no higher than 70 c on average in the past). Anyway, to the point, I'm worried that it's going to crap out on me in the near future and that just replacing parts on an old ass mobo just isn't worth it anymore. I have a lot of games on steam/other DD platforms and physically that I don't want to lose access to.

I have a bit of spare cash on hand that will allow me to spend around $500 on a new system not including the OS. The one I'm looking at now is $539 and I believe it would be a slight upgrade (or maybe more than slight, I'm terrible with judging):

Current-

AMD Phenom II X4 940 3.0GHz
GTX 560 Ti 1GB
6GB RAM

Proposed new build-

AMD FX-6300 6-core 3.5GHz
GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB
8GB RAM

Now understand I'm not interested in building a powerhouse right now. I mainly game on my PS4 and it'll probably stay like that. I'm just looking to be able to continue running the games I own and any comparable games I may wish to purchase in the future.

TL;DR version: Is it worth to update an aging desktop from the current specs to the proposed new build?

No. Your proposed build is a bad idea. Read the OP and base your build ideas on what you see there.

The FX6300 is a dead end chip and is outperformed by Intel, and it is not close....For your budget you should be looking at a Pentium Anniversary and an inexpensive Z97 board. Or at the similarly priced i3 chip.

For the GPU, just the opposite. The 750ti is not a good choice for your budget. It is solidly outperformed by AMDs offerings in that price range. You should be looking at an R7 265 or an R7 270 for around $150. Like this one, $145 after rebate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125491

8 gigs of Ram will be fine.
 

ricki42

Member
I used Linux for a while but driver support just isn't there yet and I've lost faith that Valve can make a difference on this front.

It's a chicken-and-egg problem: people don't use Linux because of lack of support and companies don't support Linux because of lack of people using it.
If you have hard-drive space to spare, you could always dualboot and just occasionally run Linux and log into steam. Valve keeps statistics of how many people use Linux and this is probably the easiest way of showing companies that there is demand. Of course, it would require a lot of people doing this to make a dent, but you have to start somewhere. If nothing else, more competition for Windows can only be a good thing.
 
Not happy with the package condition from Newegg/UPS.

66OrU6jl.jpg


o1pbZEgl.jpg


aXOp7tDl.jpg


The clam shell around the CPU looks fine and the motherboard box doesn't look like it deflected enough to hit the actual board itself but what the fuck. It looks like the stepped directly on the CPU box.

It's actually good that there was no stock cooler because at least there was a little more padding between the CPU and top of the box.
 

appaws

Banned
Not happy with the package condition from Newegg/UPS.

66OrU6jl.jpg


o1pbZEgl.jpg


aXOp7tDl.jpg


The clam shell around the CPU looks fine and the motherboard box doesn't look like it deflected enough to hit the actual board itself but what the fuck. It looks like the stepped directly on the CPU box.

It's actually good that there was no stock cooler because at least there was a little more padding between the CPU and top of the box.

Wow, that really sucks. Selling that high-end shit and packaging it like that. You should send those pics to customer service and complain.
 
Not happy with the package condition from Newegg/UPS.

66OrU6jl.jpg


o1pbZEgl.jpg


aXOp7tDl.jpg


The clam shell around the CPU looks fine and the motherboard box doesn't look like it deflected enough to hit the actual board itself but what the fuck. It looks like the stepped directly on the CPU box.

It's actually good that there was no stock cooler because at least there was a little more padding between the CPU and top of the box.
If I were you I would complain and send a picture to Newegg. They might hook you up with something free or credit
 

industrian

will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
Not happy with the package condition from Newegg/UPS.

As a non-US resident I've never personally used them, but going by the reviews on Newegg that I occasionally read, this seems to be a common thing.

Was there no bubble wrap in the top of the box?
 

luxarific

Nork unification denier
Update on that fried X99 issue that Legit Reviews experienced. If you have a Corsair AX760i/AX860i/AX1200i PSU, you should read it.

Update 9/18/2014 - Corsair has gotten back to us with some answers to some questions that we asked earlier this week. It turns out Corsair shipped AX760i/AX860i/AX1200i power supplies for about four months before they changed the firmware on them without notice. The firmware is not field upgradeable and Corsair will not be offering exchanges for anyone with an ‘older’ model that wants to swap out a PSU for one with the latest firmware on it. Corsair also said that by the motherboard makers [ASUS] own admission, the X99 Deluxe motherboard was the root cause for the failures. Corsair also said this which we will directly quote: “Would an OCP-defaulted AXi or a competitor OCP-enabled PSU have save the CPU? We’re skeptical, but maybe.” So, right now it looks like the board had a failure and then when the system was restarted the PSU without OCP may or may not have taken out the CPU through the boards failed VR circuit. We are still waiting on ASUS to give us an official statement as to what happened to the board and were told that a typhoon in the region this week has slowed things down.
 

luxarific

Nork unification denier
As a non-US resident I've never personally used them, but going by the reviews on Newegg that I occasionally read, this seems to be a common thing.

Was there no bubble wrap in the top of the box?

Newegg has the worst packers in the business. I remember buying four hard drives from them once and they were sent to me with no rigid protection in the outside box at all - just a single layer of (not very thick) bubble wrap, with the drives rattling around in the box. I stopped buying from them after that debacle.
 

The Llama

Member
Not happy with the package condition from Newegg/UPS.

66OrU6jl.jpg


o1pbZEgl.jpg


aXOp7tDl.jpg


The clam shell around the CPU looks fine and the motherboard box doesn't look like it deflected enough to hit the actual board itself but what the fuck. It looks like the stepped directly on the CPU box.

It's actually good that there was no stock cooler because at least there was a little more padding between the CPU and top of the box.

Newegg is so bad these days. I never buy from them unless I have to. Amazon FTW. Or Microcenter.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom