If you ordered a new heatsink youll get new paste, and if you ordered a new CPU youll get the stock heatsink with pre-applied paste. Unless neither of that occurs then i'd still try the paste out. Its likely the top of the tube has dried out, so just get rid of that then you should be fine.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
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If you ordered a new heatsink youll get new paste, and if you ordered a new CPU youll get the stock heatsink with pre-applied paste. Unless neither of that occurs then i'd still try the paste out. Its likely the top of the tube has dried out, so just get rid of that then you should be fine.
Sounds nice, but is it really that useful for browsing and music? I think I'd only notice the difference when gaming which I'm not going to do.
Right now it's AMD 5850 vs G3220 for me. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
zyxwvu4321
Member
Yeah, I have an H100i coming, just didn't know if the old Arctic Silver would be any better than the pre-applied stuff.
Probably not going to make any difference when doing those things. If you are ripping/transcoding audio it might have some impact as seen in the benchmarks.
Also consider the TDP of the AMD part and Intel parts. Intel usually get more performance with lower TDP.
Corsair uses Shin Etsu paste i believe, this stuff is some of the best paste. AS5 is ancient and has been beaten by even the most average of pastes.
mordecaii83
Member
When I installed my H110, I thought my temps seemed a little high. I bought some Noctua NH-T1 and applied it and my temps dropped by about 10 degrees. I may have messed up on the initial install because I didn't apply pressure 100% evenly while screwing the pump down, or it may be that the paste I bought was just better. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
Dragon1893
Member
Does 150 euros for an Asus R9 280X Direct CU II TOP sound like a good deal? I really want to upgrade from my 6850 and that's as far as my budget goes lol.
Still a solid card, and for that sort of money it'll still be a good buy.
Dragon1893
Member
I think it could last me for a while, it has 3gb and overall good performance. I play at 1080p so I think it'll get the job done for a while.
Superimposer
This is getting weirder all the time
GAF, I'm really at a loss and really need someone to help me.
I took apart my computer today to reseat my CPU cooler with new TIM. When I switched it on I got the Windows 8 boot screen but after that my monitor said 'No Signal'. I feared the worst but switching over to my onboard graphics it was working fine.
I was then afraid that I fried my GPU with static or something. However, if I start up with the onboard then switch to the GPU I can go all day. However, if I then try to restart with the GPU working, the same problem happens again.
There's only one other thing that I have come across that I can't explain - when I start up Aida64 (which I intended to use to check the effectiveness of the new TIM by stressing the CPU) this will also cause the GPU to lose signal. This is BEFORE starting any tests, the simple action of opening the application crashes the computer. How strange.
I'm totally at a loss and obviously can't go on forever having to switch cables around every time I turn on the computer. Is there any explanation for this? I really don't think I messed up my GPU with static - I'm able to play games just fine once I'm in.
I took apart my computer today to reseat my CPU cooler with new TIM. When I switched it on I got the Windows 8 boot screen but after that my monitor said 'No Signal'. I feared the worst but switching over to my onboard graphics it was working fine.
I was then afraid that I fried my GPU with static or something. However, if I start up with the onboard then switch to the GPU I can go all day. However, if I then try to restart with the GPU working, the same problem happens again.
There's only one other thing that I have come across that I can't explain - when I start up Aida64 (which I intended to use to check the effectiveness of the new TIM by stressing the CPU) this will also cause the GPU to lose signal. This is BEFORE starting any tests, the simple action of opening the application crashes the computer. How strange.
I'm totally at a loss and obviously can't go on forever having to switch cables around every time I turn on the computer. Is there any explanation for this? I really don't think I messed up my GPU with static - I'm able to play games just fine once I'm in.
hey guys, thanks for your answers. Any particular reason I should choose the EVGA SC 750 ti model against the other brands ?
FunkyMunkey
Banned
Thanks. I won't mess with voltage or the fans then if it's not needed.
Guerrillas in the Mist
Member
Maybe a PSU issue? It does sound strange.
Try reseating all the connections if you haven't already done it.
matrixman92
Member
It doesn't really matter which one I pick then. 5350 vs Intel Celeron G1840 now, I can see from comparisons that the latter performs better than the 5350 and the difference with G3220 is minimal. Now it all comes down to mini ITX vs micro ATX.
Backup your system first. Windows has a free tool I think.
Do these help at all?
Check your temps in windows with HWInfo or whatever is in the OP. If anything is above 75C that is bad.
Run a memtest76+ for 15-30 minutes. Any errors means bad RAM
Biot in safe mode and run DDU to remove the nVidia drivers
See if those help.
matrixman92
Member
I was on support with nvidia for almost two hours and they had me do the DDU thing, which didn't help. I will go check out those other things
Witchfinder General
punched Wheelchair Mike
Installing my new 970 caused some issues with my mobo which I solved by updating my BIOS. The downside is that my Overclock has disappeared and my CPU is back to factory settings.
Anyone have a simple to follow guide for OCing a 3570?
Anyone have a simple to follow guide for OCing a 3570?
Nostremitus
Member
Edit: nevermind
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Christmas came early this year...
While everyone was distracted by Maxwell this was on stock again?
appaws
Banned
I can't imagine. Is there anything you are throwing at SLI 780ti cards that it is not handling...? I think you are the perfect example of someone who should just wait and see what develops.
3570k correct...?
What motherboard?
Witchfinder General
punched Wheelchair Mike
Yes, 3570k with a Gigabyte M1 Sniper3 mobo.
Mango Positive
Member
Monitor question: I have an old 19" 900P monitor with 5ms response time and GREAT colors (HP w1907). I game currently with a GTX 680 and a i7-4770k. I'm wanting a new monitor and am unable to commit. Ideally, I'll get a 1440P monitor, but then I lose the 144 refresh rate options. I am mostly fine with my monitor, but I want to upgrade it and I'm thinking that resolution and color are probably more important to me than going above 60 frames per second. I want to keep the cost relatively low, so that I can also get a GTX 970 at the same time, with the option of getting another right before the Witcher 3 comes out, if I need it. What does Gaf recommend?
TLDR: Monitor / card combo: Budget - $800 (or your GTX 680 card is good enough, buy "this" monitor / convince me 144 refresh rate is good for me when I almost NEVER play mulitplayer online).
TLDR: Monitor / card combo: Budget - $800 (or your GTX 680 card is good enough, buy "this" monitor / convince me 144 refresh rate is good for me when I almost NEVER play mulitplayer online).
matrixman92
Member
Everything seems normal. For what its worth, my brother in law that works at intel, says that blue screens caused by this specific driver are usually hardware issues...so that is probably what I am working with here. Guess I will contact Zotac and try to at least get a replacement or something
I ordered it on the 19th of September and it got here the 23rd. I am now 900 dollars poorer. I regret nothing. I'm also in Montreal, Canada.
adamantypants
Member
Newegg has EVGA 780 for $359 after $20 rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-130-951
Considering 970s and 980s are out of stock everywhere this one is right in the butter zone.
edit: Also ASUS 780 for $329.99 after $30 rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121869&ignorebbr=1
Looks like they've dropped prices on 780s and 780tis all around finally
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-130-951
Considering 970s and 980s are out of stock everywhere this one is right in the butter zone.
edit: Also ASUS 780 for $329.99 after $30 rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121869&ignorebbr=1
Looks like they've dropped prices on 780s and 780tis all around finally
xBladeM6x
Member
Razer gonna make me buy another mouse...
Everything in my PC has red leds, except.. my deathadder mouse, but now.
fwp.
I would, if it was a Naga 2014 RGB. ;_;
fluffydelusions
Member
Oh hey Kharma forgot to thank you for the build last week. Thanks!
The Asus Strix version of the GTX 970 is better in any way compared to the MSI Twin Frozr to deserve more money?
The Asus just ran out of stock in a local store, so they only have the MSI one available. I could wait if it is really worth it, even though I doubt that there's even a difference.
The Asus just ran out of stock in a local store, so they only have the MSI one available. I could wait if it is really worth it, even though I doubt that there's even a difference.
xBladeM6x
Member
Quick questions. In the Nvidia Control Panel, is it best to have;
I usually have Triple Buffering, On. Multi Monitor mode, and Maximum Performance. Also, when overclocking, is it even really useful if I overclock the Memory Clock Offset? I've read that it can be unstable, and it is largely useless for higher end cards when the clock speed is more important. (Using 980)
- Triple Buffering On or Off
- Single Display or Multi Monitor mode
- Adaptive Performance or Maximum
I usually have Triple Buffering, On. Multi Monitor mode, and Maximum Performance. Also, when overclocking, is it even really useful if I overclock the Memory Clock Offset? I've read that it can be unstable, and it is largely useless for higher end cards when the clock speed is more important. (Using 980)
Witchfinder General
punched Wheelchair Mike
Thanks. Got it to 4.4Ghz at 1.28v which I'm 99% sure is what I had it on previously and it was rock-solid stable. Ran prime95 for a couple of hours and it was all good. Running a few benchmarks and it's clear that I wasn't getting the performance I should have been. It's great now.
zyxwvu4321
Member
Well, all parts ordered. Now to wait impatiently for the deliveries.
Yeah it sounds like a hardware issue but if possible you want to try to quickly fix the software first so you don't have to ship and wait for a new card.
adamantypants
Member
Triple buffering means the GPU is processing 3 frames for every 1 that's displayed. Basically, prerendering frames before they show up on screen. More frames pre-rendered, more memory usage. It's up to you if you want that on.
Use single display if you're using a single display.
Maximum performance means your GPU is probably going harder than it needs to. Useful if you think the GPU software is throttling your speeds.
Memory speed on your 980 is probably good enough that you'll never have to touch it. You can if you want, performance gains are practically negligible.
What resolution are you playing at?
Emotiva 4S
300$ powered. Not a speaker guy but I know those are baller, kinda want them.
Obviously good options cheaper, other peeps will chime in.
Superimposer
This is getting weirder all the time
Any other ideas? I'm quite worried
mordecaii83
Member
Have you went into the bios and made sure it's set to initialize the PCIe slot first? Your bios settings may have gotten reset.
Superimposer
This is getting weirder all the time
Funny enough I have a Korean monitor with a known issue where the BIOS doesn't show up on HDMI... so I'm waiting for a DP cable to arrive. This sounds like a lead though. But what about the Aida64 problem?
mordecaii83
Member
If your bios settings were reset, there could be an incorrect setting causing issues. I'd verify everything is good in the BIOS first, then go from there.
Well, I'm sure happy I went with the 840 EVO over the MX100 thanks to this thread. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSrfOkr5hCc
Apparently Samsung are aware of the issue and are working on a fix, but it may take months.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSrfOkr5hCc
Apparently Samsung are aware of the issue and are working on a fix, but it may take months.
After upgrading to an i7-4790s and throwing in another 4 GB of RAM to 12 GB, I decided to see if I was even running Team Fortress 2 at max settings. I was not. It looks like a Pixar cartoon now. I really like tis PlayStation monitor too. I think I'll hold off on getting a GTX970 now. I think I'll ride my GTX660 a while longer until I run into something I want to pay but can't handle.
opticalmace
Member
My WD Black hdd failed at 59 months into a 60-month warranty. Got a new drive from WD. Fuck yeah.
xBladeM6x
Member
- I play with one primary monitor with games, and two auxiliary, so 3 total.
- I'm playing at 1080p, with no intention of going higher than that until 4K becomes more reasonable.
SpaceHorror
Member
So I'm having a bit of a dilemma. Right now my PS4 is my primary gaming system and I intend it to the stay that way for the foreseeable future. I have a gaming PC that I originally built in 2009, though I've upgraded the processor, RAM, and graphics card since then. However lately it has been giving me problems and as soon as I fix one another seems to crop up (current issue is my 560 Ti is getting upwards of 90 c under load, compared to no higher than 70 c on average in the past). Anyway, to the point, I'm worried that it's going to crap out on me in the near future and that just replacing parts on an old ass mobo just isn't worth it anymore. I have a lot of games on steam/other DD platforms and physically that I don't want to lose access to.
I have a bit of spare cash on hand that will allow me to spend around $500 on a new system not including the OS. The one I'm looking at now is $539 and I believe it would be a slight upgrade (or maybe more than slight, I'm terrible with judging):
Current-
AMD Phenom II X4 940 3.0GHz
GTX 560 Ti 1GB
6GB RAM
Proposed new build-
AMD FX-6300 6-core 3.5GHz
GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB
8GB RAM
Now understand I'm not interested in building a powerhouse right now. I mainly game on my PS4 and it'll probably stay like that. I'm just looking to be able to continue running the games I own and any comparable games I may wish to purchase in the future.
TL;DR version: Is it worth to update an aging desktop from the current specs to the proposed new build?
I have a bit of spare cash on hand that will allow me to spend around $500 on a new system not including the OS. The one I'm looking at now is $539 and I believe it would be a slight upgrade (or maybe more than slight, I'm terrible with judging):
Current-
AMD Phenom II X4 940 3.0GHz
GTX 560 Ti 1GB
6GB RAM
Proposed new build-
AMD FX-6300 6-core 3.5GHz
GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB
8GB RAM
Now understand I'm not interested in building a powerhouse right now. I mainly game on my PS4 and it'll probably stay like that. I'm just looking to be able to continue running the games I own and any comparable games I may wish to purchase in the future.
TL;DR version: Is it worth to update an aging desktop from the current specs to the proposed new build?
Superimposer
This is getting weirder all the time
Got into the BIOS, that wasn't it.
I thought it might have something to do with the sensors for temperature, voltage etc. since starting Aida64 would theoretically activate those, but I'm able to open other benchmarking tools, and I can actually use Aida64 fine if I open it before I switch out to the GPU... it's the opening part that makes it crash, and I think there's a clue in that to whatever the problem is. I'm not smart enough to figure it out though.
Going to try a CMOS reset before anything else, there still might be a pesky setting somewhere. It must be something like that if I'm able to use the card fully once I'm actually booted.
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