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LG promises HDR gaming input lag patch for 2016 OLED sets

Rourkey

Member
Have to agree, I'm re watching my blu ray collection on a c6 it is blowing me away it, it's almost like watching different films
 

dragos495

Member
Have to agree, I'm re watching my blu ray collection on a c6 it is blowing me away it, it's almost like watching different films

yup, that seems to be the general consensus.

i first thought that the c6 (i have the 65") looks so great because of the content i was feeding it, like uhd hdr, dolby vision, netflix 4k etc but nope, almost every older bluray looks amazing!

i watched recently road to perdition and even though the grain is a bit much and its not pin sharp as the newest releases, almost every scene looks like a painting!
 

The Argus

Member
The B7 isnt the successor to the B6, per say, both the B7 and C7 are. The B7 model and cabinet design is supposed to be a wholesale club and big box store exclusive, to Costco and whatnot. The C7 is basically the B7 with a different cabinet design/back and reviews are out for it.

You really don't need to wait for reviews on this TV. 2016/2017 LG OLEDs are the best. Just buy it. CNET just put out a story today about what OLED to buy and are recommending sticking with the 2016 models for the cheaper price.

https://www.cnet.com/news/which-oled-tv-should-you-buy-2016-lg-b6-vs-2017-lg-c7/

Oh nice, thanks for this. Figured the C7 was the curved version this year. I love my parent's B6, I got to set it up, but I'm only there a few times a year. Currently rocking a 55inch LG LED from 2014, parts of me really want to upgrade but the other parts tell me to wait one more year. Guess I'll try and hunt down a cheap new B6 65inch before deciding.
 

mitchman

Gold Member
Anyone having issues with a B6 and ARC audio? I just cannot get this to work at all. CEC works fine since I can control my sound bar with the B6 remote but there's no audio coming through.

Does this setup make sense?

- PS4 plugged into B6
- B6's HDMI2 ARC Out-> Sound Bar HDMI ARC
- Audio set to ARC in the B6 settings.

Doesn't ARC require enabling HDMI CEC in both ends? I use optical from my B6 to the receiver, but I seem to recall CEC must be enabled for ARC to work in general.
 

TaKeRx

Member
Hi guys,

I'm on the verge of getting either the B6 or the C7... $1000 difference is pretty big for me, but comparing the input lag from rtigns is solidifying the C7 as a better choice.

To any B6 owner, how's the 'real life' input lag feel? I'm coming from a SONY 55W900A with 19ms input lag. C7 is coming in at ~21 and the B6 at ~28.

Thanks
 

NYR

Member
Hi guys,

I'm on the verge of getting either the B6 or the C7... $1000 difference is pretty big for me, but comparing the input lag from rtigns is solidifying the C7 as a better choice.

To any B6 owner, how's the 'real life' input lag feel? I'm coming from a SONY 55W900A with 19ms input lag. C7 is coming in at ~21 and the B6 at ~28.

Thanks
You can generally assume you lose 1 frame for every 30 ms of lag. The difference between 19 and 21/28 will not be noticeable by any human. I would not be deciding between the C7 and B7 because one test showed it was 7ms better. That isn't worth $1000.
 
My B6 arrived this last Monday. It's awesome!

Can anyone advise on resolution settings? E.g. I don't have a 4K service from my satellite provider, but the engineer that installed my satellite system set my settop box to output in 2160p (or something like that, whatever is the highest). Should my set top box be set to 1080p as that's the current highest resolution the content is outputting?
 
My B6 arrived this last Monday. It's awesome!

Can anyone advise on resolution settings? E.g. I don't have a 4K service from my satellite provider, but the engineer that installed my satellite system set my settop box to output in 2160p (or something like that, whatever is the highest). Should my set top box be set to 1080p as that's the current highest resolution the content is outputting?

I would leave it at 2160p. Can't hurt anything.
 
Cross posting from the main TV thread:

I just noticed a very thin vertical band of pixels on the right side of my B6 which appear to be slightly lighter in color vs the surrounding pixels. It's only noticeable in certain scenarios (PS4 menu, somtimes at night in Horizon) and I never noticed it before today so I'm wondering if it's always been there or not. It covers the entire height of the TV in a perfectly straight line.

Snagged a quick phone pic which honestly makes it look worse than it actually is:



Anybody noticed anything like this? It's the 55" B6. Running a compensation cycle right now to see if it'll do anything.


I have a similar issue except the lines are horizontal and go away every now and then. I have been trying to figure out if it was worth it to get it repaired because it doesn't seem to stay like that.
 

TaKeRx

Member
You can generally assume you lose 1 frame for every 30 ms of lag. The difference between 19 and 21/28 will not be noticeable by any human. I would not be deciding between the C7 and B7 because one test showed it was 7ms better. That isn't worth $1000.

Thank you. You're right, it most likely won't be worth $1000 more.
 

Kambing

Member
Hi guys,

I'm on the verge of getting either the B6 or the C7... $1000 difference is pretty big for me, but comparing the input lag from rtigns is solidifying the C7 as a better choice.

To any B6 owner, how's the 'real life' input lag feel? I'm coming from a SONY 55W900A with 19ms input lag. C7 is coming in at ~21 and the B6 at ~28.

Thanks

YMMV, but I can definitely feel the difference between the B6 and C6. Would I get accustomed to the higher input lag on C6 if I was using it exclusively? Definitely. But I jump back and forth between the displays and it is always apparent. Hell, I had a 500m Pioneer Kuro and that had 40+ms input lag -- got accustomed to that over time. Having said that, I feel that I can tolerate up to 32ms of input lag before I can "feel" it on consoles. But every once in awhile I jump back on my Eizo FG2421 monitor and the 28ms on the B6 feels laggy in comparison lol. If you game on PC, the $1000 premium that the C7 has is definitely worth it for the great chroma lag and 120hz@1080p.

Another way to look at is 19ms to 28ms is a 47% increase in lag.

EDIT: FYI, I used to Dota pretty hard, was in the US leaderboards and played @144hz with low input lag displays, so my brain got used to over 3000 hours of that lol
 

TaKeRx

Member
YMMV, but I can definitely feel the difference between the B6 and C6. Would I get accustomed to the higher input lag on C6 if I was using it exclusively? Definitely. But I jump back and forth between the displays and it is always apparent. Hell, I had a 500m Pioneer Kuro and that had 40+ms input lag -- got accustomed to that over time. Having said that, I feel that I can tolerate up to 32ms of input lag before I can "feel" it on consoles. But every once in awhile I jump back on my Eizo FG2421 monitor and the 28ms on the B6 feels laggy in comparison lol. If you game on PC, the $1000 premium that the C7 has is definitely worth it for the great chroma lag and 120hz@1080p.

Another way to look at is 19ms to 28ms is a 47% increase in lag.

EDIT: FYI, I used to Dota pretty hard, was in the US leaderboards and played @144hz with low input lag displays, so my brain got used to over 3000 hours of that lol

Thanks! Well... I went into Best Buy with all intentions of getting the B6, but they just happened to have C7's in stock, so I grabbed it. Even if there isn't much input lag difference between both sets, I know I will always wonder how the C7 would perform. 24mo BB also helped :). After setting up the TV I can say it was definitely worth it so far although I didn't do much yet. The blacks on this OLED is definitely something else. I had a Peru video in 4K on youtube and both my GF's and I mouths dropped. Can't wait to throw a movie on the XBOX ONE S.

Thanks again NYR and Kambing!
 

Colbert

Banned
Thanks! Well... I went into Best Buy with all intentions of getting the B6, but they just happened to have C7's in stock, so I grabbed it. Even if there isn't much input lag difference between both sets, I know I will always wonder how the C7 would perform. 24mo BB also helped :). After setting up the TV I can say it was definitely worth it so far although I didn't do much yet. The blacks on this OLED is definitely something else. I had a Peru video in 4K on youtube and both my GF's and I mouths dropped. Can't wait to throw a movie on the XBOX ONE S.

Thanks again NYR and Kambing!

I have a 65" B6 since last weekend. The Blacks and the intensity of the white and the HDR I have seen with Forza Horizon 3 and even Mass Effect Andromeda is nothing else than amazing.

I also watched a normal AVATAR BluRay. Wow on that screen. Btw the new update makes it easy to configure for Xbox One S. I first had some problems because a switch between my Xbox One S and the OLED but it worked out of the gate without the HDMI Switch (which claims it would support UHD but anyway).
 

SOLDIER

Member
Still no improvement at all regarding the handshaking issue between my E6 and consoles. I have to constantly either turn my TV off and on, or unplug and replug the HDMI cable from my PS4. It's supremely annoying.

At least I was able to deal with the Switch notification pop-ups by plugging the Switch's HDMI to my Home Theater.
 

SOLDIER

Member
I have mostly been fine since hooking the E6 to my new Denon 4300, though the handshaking issue still happened once with both the TV and the AVR being on different HDMI ports while turning on the PS4 Pro.

Is the handshaking reportedly lessened/eliminated if I were to connect the PS4 to my Home Theater instead of directly to my TV?
 

pswii60

Member
Still no improvement at all regarding the handshaking issue between my E6 and consoles. I have to constantly either turn my TV off and on, or unplug and replug the HDMI cable from my PS4. It's supremely annoying.

At least I was able to deal with the Switch notification pop-ups by plugging the Switch's HDMI to my Home Theater.
Nintendo really need to fix that, drives me insane.
 

SOLDIER

Member
Yes, that's what ppl report and so far that's also my experience.

And there's no loss in quality whatsoever if you've got a PS4 Pro hooked up to a 4K-compatible Home Theater vs directly connecting it to the TV, right?

I've heard that shouldn't be the case, but I just wanted to make sure. 4K, HDR, it's all intact, right?
 
My AVR is put to "passthrough", so it basically only works as switch videowise.
Of course its HDMI ports need to at least support HDMI 2.0a and HDCP 2.2.
 

Yukstin

Member
Is the handshaking reportedly lessened/eliminated if I were to connect the PS4 to my Home Theater instead of directly to my TV?

I have the C6 and I still get the occasional white noise screen when switching receiver inputs over to the PS4 Pro. It happens more often when switching to a game with HDR. It just adds another 15-20 seconds as I have to switch inputs to another source, wait a few seconds and then switch back to the PS4 pro input.

My Yamaha receiver is setup for pure pass through.
 

Weevilone

Member
Still no improvement at all regarding the handshaking issue between my E6 and consoles. I have to constantly either turn my TV off and on, or unplug and replug the HDMI cable from my PS4. It's supremely annoying.

At least I was able to deal with the Switch notification pop-ups by plugging the Switch's HDMI to my Home Theater.

I have to wonder if have some other aspect funky like cabling or AVR issues. It only takes 1 problematic component in the end to end chain.

I have everything and the kitchen sink into an E6 and I can think of maybe 1-2 handshake issues ever. I've had the display for quite a few months.
 
I just bought a OLED55C6P television and I tried to do a firmware update and the television is telling me that there are no firmware updates. I have version 4.30.15, is this the most up to date version or is there a way to download the latest version from their website? I tried looking, but didn't find anything.

Also, what is the best settings to get the most out of this tv with a PS4 pro? Thanks in advance.

Edit - I found the most up to date firmware on LG's site and that is now installed. How do you fine tune the picture? I only see various options such as game mode, cinema, etc.
 

MBison

Member
I'm thinking of getting the 60UH7700 and a PS4 pro. Sounds like these couple pretty well now? Anyone have the 60 specifically? Helpppp
 

Bog

Junior Ace
My PS4 Pro has been acting up with my 65" B6. It does this flicker thing occasionally, even with HDR off. With HDR on, it flickers almost constantly. Is this a setting mishap or a bad HDMI cable? I'm connected directly to the TV.
 

Kyoufu

Member
My PS4 Pro has been acting up with my 65" B6. It does this flicker thing occasionally, even with HDR off. With HDR on, it flickers almost constantly. Is this a setting mishap or a bad HDMI cable?

Try disabling HDCP in your PS4 system settings first and see if you still get flickering.
 
Anyone got a Nintendo Switch hooked o to a LG B6? I have it connected to HDMI 3 port. Occasionally when watching TV via HDMI 1, I'll get an HDMI 3 pop up on the screen for a few seconds, then it disappears. Not sure why this is happening. The Switch is in sleep mode.

Thanks.
 

mr lurtle

Member
Anyone got a Nintendo Switch hooked o to a LG B6? I have it connected to HDMI 3 port. Occasionally when watching TV via HDMI 1, I'll get an HDMI 3 pop up on the screen for a few seconds, then it disappears. Not sure why this is happening. The Switch is in sleep mode.

Thanks.
I have the same problem. Now I just leave the switch out of the dock when I'm not using it.
 
Anyone got a Nintendo Switch hooked o to a LG B6? I have it connected to HDMI 3 port. Occasionally when watching TV via HDMI 1, I'll get an HDMI 3 pop up on the screen for a few seconds, then it disappears. Not sure why this is happening. The Switch is in sleep mode.

Thanks.

The Switch constantly does some polling to the TV/AVR even when not in use. Thankfully my AVR shuts it up when it's not manually switched to it.
 

Kyoufu

Member
Anyone got a Nintendo Switch hooked o to a LG B6? I have it connected to HDMI 3 port. Occasionally when watching TV via HDMI 1, I'll get an HDMI 3 pop up on the screen for a few seconds, then it disappears. Not sure why this is happening. The Switch is in sleep mode.

Thanks.

It happens for me on PS4 when it does its daily upload/download ritual at 5am. Can't disable the popup sadly.
 
I have the same problem. Now I just leave the switch out of the dock when I'm not using it.

The Switch constantly does some polling to the TV/AVR even when not in use. Thankfully my AVR shuts it up when it's not manually switched to it.

It happens for me on PS4 when it does its daily upload/download ritual at 5am. Can't disable the popup sadly.
Thanks everyone. I'm glad I'm not the only one this is happening to.
 

mitchman

Gold Member
My PS4 Pro has been acting up with my 65" B6. It does this flicker thing occasionally, even with HDR off. With HDR on, it flickers almost constantly. Is this a setting mishap or a bad HDMI cable? I'm connected directly to the TV.

I have a similar setup with no issues. Try with HDMI cable that was included with the PS4 Pro. It sounds like a cable problem. Latest B6 firmware too, of course.
 

samred

Member
Totally different LG HDR topic, since I'm stuck: how in the heck do I enable HDR with a B6 connected to a Windows 10 PC? Neither my 980 Ti nor my 1080 Ti get it right, and nobody (Nvidia, Microsoft, LG) have really written out a guide about what to do here. Seems like it's an issue with HDMI, but, like, both of my compatible game consoles can send pristine HDR data to the B6 via HDMI, so... anybody who can say definitely what's going on here, I'd greatly appreciate it. Is this an LG issue? Nvidia? Windows 10? I just wanna know who to blame. Redout got an HDR-10 patch recently, and I cannot access it (just like I can't really access Shadow Warrior 2's HDR mode).

(I can go deeper into the weeds about the confusing array of options, like RGB vs 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0, if you want.)
 

Kyoufu

Member
Totally different LG HDR topic, since I'm stuck: how in the heck do I enable HDR with a B6 connected to a Windows 10 PC? Neither my 980 Ti nor my 1080 Ti get it right, and nobody (Nvidia, Microsoft, LG) have really written out a guide about what to do here. Seems like it's an issue with HDMI, but, like, both of my compatible game consoles can send pristine HDR data to the B6 via HDMI, so... anybody who can say definitely what's going on here, I'd greatly appreciate it. Is this an LG issue? Nvidia? Windows 10? I just wanna know who to blame. Redout got an HDR-10 patch recently, and I cannot access it (just like I can't really access Shadow Warrior 2's HDR mode).

(I can go deeper into the weeds about the confusing array of options, like RGB vs 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0, if you want.)

Does the 980ti have HDMI 2.0?
 
Just ordered a 55B6D. Really looking forward to enjoying some 4k HDR content. Gaming wise I might check Uncharted 4 first (don't own Horizon yet). Do you guys have any recommendations on what shows/movies to watch on Netflix/Prime?

Btw, are LG's integrated apps still the way to go or do PS4 Pro's Netflix/Prime apps support 4k and HDR by now?
 
Just ordered a 55B6D. Really looking forward to enjoying some 4k HDR content. Gaming wise I might check Uncharted 4 first (don't own Horizon yet). Do you guys have any recommendations on what shows/movies to watch on Netflix/Prime?

Picture wise Netflix: Marco Polo and any of the Marvel series, e.g. Daredevil, Jessica Jones, Luke Cage etc.
Amazon: The Grand Tour

Btw, are LG's integrated apps still the way to go or do PS4 Pro's Netflix/Prime apps support 4k and HDR by now?
No HDR streaming support on consoles yet, so yep, the LG App's are the way to go.
 
I hooked the TV up yesterday and really enjoyed my first hours with it. This morning though I checked the panel and found a single dead sub pixel (always black while the image on screen is green).

Just called amazon and they don't have the tv in stock anymore. Seems like I am stuck with the tv unless I want to return it and not be able to get the same deal on the 55b6d anymore. Will call LG support on Monday but my hopes aren't too high considering that they often don't count a single pixel as a fault. What are your experiences? Should I just live with that one dead sub pixel? How likely is it that a replacement does have the same or different/more faults?!
 

Weevilone

Member
I hooked the TV up yesterday and really enjoyed my first hours with it. This morning though I checked the panel and found a single dead sub pixel (always black while the image on screen is green).

Just called amazon and they don't have the tv in stock anymore. Seems like I am stuck with the tv unless I want to return it and not be able to get the same deal on the 55b6d anymore. Will call LG support on Monday but my hopes aren't too high considering that they often don't count a single pixel as a fault. What are your experiences? Should I just live with that one dead sub pixel? How likely is it that a replacement does have the same or different/more faults?!

At 4K, I can't discern a single pixel issue from a normal viewing distance so I don't check panels. Doing so is just a way to torture myself over something I'd never otherwise notice.

Personally I'd just let it go.
 

Dosia

Member
I hooked the TV up yesterday and really enjoyed my first hours with it. This morning though I checked the panel and found a single dead sub pixel (always black while the image on screen is green).

Just called amazon and they don't have the tv in stock anymore. Seems like I am stuck with the tv unless I want to return it and not be able to get the same deal on the 55b6d anymore. Will call LG support on Monday but my hopes aren't too high considering that they often don't count a single pixel as a fault. What are your experiences? Should I just live with that one dead sub pixel? How likely is it that a replacement does have the same or different/more faults?!

Learn to ignore it.
 
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