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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

They look good. Have you thought about some x370 boards for the higher end amd builds? I see the x370 ASRock taichi being recommended online many places. Or the Asus Hero 6. With your octocore level builds around 2k id probably x370 over b350.

That's not a bad idea at all. I'll look into x370 for the top couple of AMD builds.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm trying to learn how to do some diagnostics to figure stuff out, downloaded MSI Afterburner.

All i did was set up a monitoring thing as I played Dark Souls 3, and here is what I got, does this suggest anything? It looks like the GPU is barely being used, so is the problem some of the maxed out CPU sections?

https://imgur.com/NBfYrEj

Something is definitely wrong because even dropping the game down to 1080p, the game is like stuck hovering at 40 fps


Edit: In doing some research, someone else had the same issue as me for Dark Souls 3 specifically, ryzen CPU, turns out they needed to update the BIOS, so I'm going to try that, but please let me know if the info I provided sheds any other light
 

KageMaru

Member
Hopefully someone here could help me because I've been searching online and can't find any answers. Any ideas why I can select 1440p just fine in a game like Quantum Break (steam version) but don't have the option in games like Hellblade? I know the option should be available because I've seen benchmarks for it but it's not available when I scroll through the resolution options. I've seen this with other games as well but hellblade is the most recent example.
 
Can anyone tell me how the original Xbox one controller works on Win10 with the usb dongle (or via usb cable)? I need a new gamepad for PC and I've gotten tired of swapping my DS4. I've also noticed some annoying compatibility issues when using the DS4 via steam and bluetooth.
 
Can anyone tell me how the original Xbox one controller works on Win10 with the usb dongle (or via usb cable)? I need a new gamepad for PC and I've gotten tired of swapping my DS4. I've also noticed some annoying compatibility issues when using the DS4 via steam and bluetooth.

if you are using wired, it is plug and play.

the dongle also works fine, but it seems you can use the new xbox one controller without dongle if your pc has blutooth
 
if you are using wired, it is plug and play.

the dongle also works fine, but it seems you can use the new xbox one controller without dongle if your pc has blutooth

Thanks, I'm working out a trade for the launch controller which I don't believe has BT. Just wondering what people's experience has been with the dongle compared to BT.
 

kuYuri

Member
Hopefully someone here could help me because I've been searching online and can't find any answers. Any ideas why I can select 1440p just fine in a game like Quantum Break (steam version) but don't have the option in games like Hellblade? I know the option should be available because I've seen benchmarks for it but it's not available when I scroll through the resolution options. I've seen this with other games as well but hellblade is the most recent example.

What Display Mode is Hellblade set to in the Graphics menu?
 

Bloodember

Member
Can anyone tell me how the original Xbox one controller works on Win10 with the usb dongle (or via usb cable)? I need a new gamepad for PC and I've gotten tired of swapping my DS4. I've also noticed some annoying compatibility issues when using the DS4 via steam and bluetooth.

Thanks, I'm working out a trade for the launch controller which I don't believe has BT. Just wondering what people's experience has been with the dongle compared to BT.

I use the Xbox One controller with the dongle. I works pretty good. There are times where it can't connect and I just have to unplug the dongle and plug it back in and it then connects. Haven't had it happen in a few weeks though, bug might have been fixed.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm trying to learn how to do some diagnostics to figure stuff out, downloaded MSI Afterburner.

All i did was set up a monitoring thing as I played Dark Souls 3, and here is what I got, does this suggest anything? It looks like the GPU is barely being used, so is the problem some of the maxed out CPU sections?

https://imgur.com/NBfYrEj

Something is definitely wrong because even dropping the game down to 1080p, the game is like stuck hovering at 40 fps


Edit: In doing some research, someone else had the same issue as me for Dark Souls 3 specifically, ryzen CPU, turns out they needed to update the BIOS, so I'm going to try that, but please let me know if the info I provided sheds any other light

That does explain somethings, yeah. The game is bottlenecking on the CPU, pretty much maxing out the one core it is using, which is holding back your GPU massively.
Didn't think it'd be BIOS related, but if it's a notable problem then go ahead and get it updated. It's a very quick process and all you'll need is a USB stick and the BIOS file from your motherboard manufacturer (found on their website).

That's possibly/probably also effecting you in the other games you've had issues with regarding stuttering/dropped frames.
 
That does explain somethings, yeah. The game is bottlenecking on the CPU, pretty much maxing out the one core it is using, which is holding back your GPU massively.
Didn't think it'd be BIOS related, but if it's a notable problem then go ahead and get it updated. It's a very quick process and all you'll need is a USB stick and the BIOS file from your motherboard manufacturer (found on their website).

That's possibly/probably also effecting you in the other games you've had issues with regarding stuttering/dropped frames.

Thanks, yeah I'm going to do the bios update, it's weird because it seems very specific to certain games. For example, I just bought shadow warrior right now and can play on max settings 3440x1440p at mostly 100fps. Works perfect.
 
Thanks, yeah I'm going to do the bios update, it's weird because it seems very specific to certain games. For example, I just bought shadow warrior right now and can play on max settings 3440x1440p at mostly 100fps. Works perfect.

Welcome to the wonderful world of PC complexity. I've been pretty lucky with my build and not had many issues with it, though before playing any games on it I updated the BIOS, overclocked my RAM, downloaded the AMD drivers, downloaded the GPU drivers and so on. Even with all that, I couldn't get No Man's Sky to run on my system without it crashing repeatedly.
 

Zojirushi

Member
Man what the hell happened to these RAM stick designs?

I'm coming of some basic ass corsair ddr3 RAM which I need because I have zero space underneath my CPU cooler and now I'm looking at DDR4 sticks in preparation of an upgrade and all of them look like goddamn spaceships and they're huuuge.

How the hell do people even fit these monstrosities between board and cooler and where do I get some that look like these:

https://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/8GB-Corsair-ValueSelect-DDR3-1333-DIMM-CL9-Single_792084.html
 
Man what the hell happened to these RAM stick designs?

I'm coming of some basic ass corsair ddr3 RAM which I need because I have zero space underneath my CPU cooler and now I'm looking at DDR4 sticks in preparation of an upgrade and all of them look like goddamn spaceships and they're huuuge.

How the hell do people even fit these monstrosities between board and cooler and where do I get some that look like these:

https://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/8GB-Corsair-ValueSelect-DDR3-1333-DIMM-CL9-Single_792084.html

G. Skill value: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...g+skill+value&N=50008476 601190328&isNodeId=1

G. skill Aegis: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...s&ignorear=0&N=100007611 601190328&isNodeId=1

Crucial Balistix (2400 and 2133): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...ial+balistix&N=100007611 601190328&isNodeId=1

That said. For fast RAM, Corsair Vengeance's heat spreader are really low. I have a Macho Rev B that has low clearance and they fit underneath, higher tier Crucial Ballistix Elite also fit underneath. G Skill Trident Z and Corsair Vengeance LED do not.

All of the RGB LED RAM sticks are tall because they assume you have a water AIO and won't be blocking them.

edit:
HyperX Fury up to 2800 are also quite low: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...00007611 50011776 601190328&Manufactory=11776
 

KageMaru

Member
What Display Mode is Hellblade set to in the Graphics menu?

Full screen like everything else. IIRC Mass Effect Andromeda is another game I have this problem. I have every resolution selected in the NVidia control panel too, hoping it would correct the issue but it didn't. =/
 

kuYuri

Member
Full screen like everything else. IIRC Mass Effect Andromeda is another game I have this problem. I have every resolution selected in the NVidia control panel too, hoping it would correct the issue but it didn't. =/

What monitor and GPU do you have? Also, double check your display settings in Windows. I can't imagine why that resolution is inaccessible in those games otherwise.

Also, try uninstalling and reinstalling graphics drivers with latest drivers if you haven't already.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of PC complexity. I've been pretty lucky with my build and not had many issues with it, though before playing any games on it I updated the BIOS, overclocked my RAM, downloaded the AMD drivers, downloaded the GPU drivers and so on. Even with all that, I couldn't get No Man's Sky to run on my system without it crashing repeatedly.

Yeah, I'm doing more and more research and starting to figure stuff out. First off, I still need to update the BIOS, and that might be a big problem solver right there. But until then, I noticed that a single CPU thread is constantly hovering between 50-70% usage. This is going on right now, and the only thing I have going on is MSI Afterburner and this single mozilla neogaf tab. Is that normal? My overall CPU usage doesn't seem like its not moving much at all over 1%. In my processes in task manager, it doesn't look like anything is going on that is using up all that much CPU.

I'm thinking this single thread overload is the key to my problems. I think thats why I'm getting problems on some games (games that rely on a single thread moreso) and am playing fine on others (better at multithreading). Does this sound like it might make sense?

I saw a youtube video of a guy who was having problems and it was literally because of the RGB application coloring his graphics card and stuff using up a crazy amount of CPU. I have a different MOBO so I didn't have that specific process, but I also have the RGB stuff lighting up everything, I wonder if that might be something...

Just spitballing here in case anyone gets a lightbulb moment and has any suggestions
 
Yeah, I'm doing more and more research and starting to figure stuff out. First off, I still need to update the BIOS, and that might be a big problem solver right there. But until then, I noticed that a single CPU thread is constantly hovering between 50-70% usage. This is going on right now, and the only thing I have going on is MSI Afterburner and this single mozilla neogaf tab. Is that normal? My overall CPU usage doesn't seem like its not moving much at all over 1%. In my processes in task manager, it doesn't look like anything is going on that is using up all that much CPU.

I'm thinking this single thread overload is the key to my problems. I think thats why I'm getting problems on some games (games that rely on a single thread moreso) and am playing fine on others (better at multithreading). Does this sound like it might make sense?

I saw a youtube video of a guy who was having problems and it was literally because of the RGB application coloring his graphics card and stuff using up a crazy amount of CPU. I have a different MOBO so I didn't have that specific process, but I also have the RGB stuff lighting up everything, I wonder if that might be something...

Just spitballing here in case anyone gets a lightbulb moment and has any suggestions

You don't have a "Windows Module Installer" running at all do you? Google it, but it was some funky Windows update crap that apparently pops up for some PCs and wrecks CPU usage. I don't have the issue so I haven't looked into it much, but worth a check for you.
 
You don't have a "Windows Module Installer" running at all do you? Google it, but it was some funky Windows update crap that apparently pops up for some PCs and wrecks CPU usage. I don't have the issue so I haven't looked into it much, but worth a check for you.

Doesn't seem to be that, I don't see it anywhere in the task manager. In fact, nothing in the task manager seems to be indicating any high CPU usage, so I don't know where it's coming from. Its really just a single thread that has a constant high %, but the overall CPU has basically nothing at all...
 

LordAlu

Member
I've been eyeing nzxt products as well. The h440 to replace my ancient antec 300 would be a god send.

Tired of the bare metal innards, good excuse to redo my cables as well.

NSFW
That cable management.
That SSD just hanging there.
Molex fans.
The dust!

latest


The H440 is a nice case, if a little old in design. I prefer the S340 Elite myself, but either would be a worthy upgrade.
 

MikeBison

Member
Playing a bit of Witcher 3 again this morning despite having 200+ hours in PS4 version.

My god. Everything ultra and locked 60fps without a dip at 1440. This is the best. Should have built a PC sooner.
 

MikeBison

Member
Have a question too. Trying to use the corsair app to put a macro on one of the mouse buttons to be left shift. It works, but if I hold it down, it doesn't hold 'left shift'.

Ie I want it to be left shit as that's sprint and heavy attack modifier in witcher 3.

Any ideas?
 

Sepultura

Member
Anyone?

Is this a worthwhile upgrade for the price?

Cross posting from the Coffee Lake thread..

Gaf, coming from i3-6100, is a used i5-6600k at $190 a good deal? Don't want to replace my Z170 motherboard just yet. Hoping the i5 will last atleast a couple of years for 60fps gaming. Pairing it up with GTX 1060 6GB.
 
Anyone?

Is this a worthwhile upgrade for the price?

Idk about the used part but

Doing research, an i5 6600k is a very good cpu for gaming. As far as 60fps, youll prolly achoeve that easily with it.
(im personally looking for a Ryzen because I like multitasking, but an i5 k series is the other cpu line Im looking at. 6600k is up there)
 

Sepultura

Member
Idk about the used part but

Doing research, an i5 6600k is a very good cpu for gaming. As far as 60fps, youll prolly achoeve that easily with it.
(im personally looking for a Ryzen because I like multitasking, but an i5 k series is the other cpu line Im looking at. 6600k is up there)
Isn't the case with CPUs like if they work they work or else it'll be DOA? Or would it be unstable/crashing even on stock clocks?
 
this is me

i will never buy a non-modular PSU again. This big bulge worming its way through my case gives me a headache every time I open it up.

Modular psus? Gonna have to research them, I hate that thick frenzy of cables as well.

Isn't the case with CPUs like if they work they work or else it'll be DOA? Or would it be unstable/crashing even on stock clocks?

That is beyond my knowledge of Cpu wear and tear. I am also not the best person to ask because my own cpu is 7 year old and Ive never replaced it or switched the fan lol.

If you want my opinion, I would go for the cpu provided you can boot your pc and and test it out before you commit.
 
Looking at this atm, sort of considering Coffee Lake but the 8700k is in a completely different price bracket. Anything you'd change or add? I still have the CPU cooler laying around, just need to get an AM4 bracket.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($196.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($102.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($151.97 @ Amazon)
Storage: Intel - 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($63.34 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($564.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($137.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DGR 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($599.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $2255.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-12 06:49 EDT-0400
 
Modular psus? Gonna have to research them, I hate that thick frenzy of cables as well.

Basically, you've got non-modular PSUs (all cables permanently attached), semi-modular (several cables, such as the CPU and motherboard power cables are attached, sometimes more than that), and fully-modular PSUs (all cables are detachable).

I wouldn't ever recommend anyone buy anything that isn't at least semi-modular these days for any budget over $600. Under $600, it might be worth it to save $5-$10 and just get a non-modular PSU. It's not a necessary thing to get modular PSUs, but they sure make building a ton more fun and easier.
 

Sepultura

Member
If you want my opinion, I would go for the cpu provided you can boot your pc and and test it out before you commit.
I do have that option. Seller is giving me two days to check it out.

190 for a used 6600k is not a good deal imo. For 30 more dollars you can get a 7600k brand new. Since you have a Skylake in there already you can flash to a newer bios which probably supports kaby lake.
I did the price conversion according to local prices. For a brand new CPU, these are my options (after price conversion to give a better idea, give or take $5-$10 depending on vendors):

i5-7600K = US$285
i5-6600K = US$260
i5-7500 = US$230
i5-7400 = US$205
 
Looking at this atm, sort of considering Coffee Lake but the 8700k is in a completely different price bracket. Anything you'd change or add? I still have the CPU cooler laying around, just need to get an AM4 bracket.
I have a very similar setup. For the price you are sitting , I would get an ips monitor , instead of TN, unless you got that TN panel on sale recently. I have a ViewSonic 27 inches ips 165hz gsync that I love it
 
I do have that option. Seller is giving me two days to check it out.


I did the price conversion according to local prices. For a brand new CPU, these are my options (after price conversion to give a better idea, give or take $5-$10 depending on vendors):

i5-7600K = US$285
i5-6600K = US$260
i5-7500 = US$230
i5-7400 = US$205

...wait, if you need to convert to local prices, are you importing it? Or was the cost of the 6600k pre-converted?
 
I have a very similar setup. For the price you are sitting , I would get an ips monitor , instead of TN, unless you got that TN panel on sale recently. I have a ViewSonic 27 inches ips 165hz gsync that I love it

I considered it, but it's another €200+ price premium on top of it, I wasn't too sure it was worth the added cost.
 
posting here to see if I get any help:

Guys,

I got the steam link so I can do some couch gaming here and there.
I am very frustrated by the device.

I have a very good gaming PC (ryzen 5 1600 overclocked, GTX 1080, 16gb RAM 3200) at 1440p on my gaming monitor.

I just set up my steam link. I connected via etherned cable, and is still bad. the menu seems fine, but sometimes the screen just freezes, and take several seconds for it to become responsive. I can hear the sound of the menu, but the screen freezes. sometimes I can load the game, but then it might take 1-2 minutes for the screen to change.

I tried wireless, wired and still the same crap. There is nothing wrong with my router or modem, I use the same setup with all my devices (ps4, xbox one, switch, netflix), and I am able to stream 4k just fine for example. really fast internet.

SO, it is not my gaming PC(very good hardware), it is not my internet connection (other devices work fine), so is the steam link faulty?

PS: when I test the connection (either wired or wireless), this is the message I got: "network test complete, frame loss 100%, network time 0.0 ms, variance 0.00ms. Your network may not work well with steam link, please use wired network for best experience"

HELP guys.
 
I think I made a costly mistake (well, potentially return shipping costly), the tower I bought came in today and it is GINORMOUS. I double-checked on Newegg and it's in the Mid-ATX section so I'm a little shocked (as I don't think my current case is a Mini-ATX).

I'm conflicted on sending it back or keeping it. I really don't like the size of it and I can keep my current case (as everything is already in it, for starters).

I'm guessing Mid-ATX just means a size range and not a single size factor?
 

Mrbob

Member
Looking at this atm, sort of considering Coffee Lake but the 8700k is in a completely different price bracket. Anything you'd change or add? I still have the CPU cooler laying around, just need to get an AM4 bracket.

I'm putting together a similar build with an ryzen 1700 and Noctua Uh14s (it should fit in the meshify c case according to the fractal design page). I have the Meshify C case sitting in a box right now waiting for the rest of the parts to show up later this week. I decided on the MSI B350 Gaming Pro Carbon board because it seems to have extra power phases putting it closer to a X370 board, which should theoretically make it easier to OC on. But this is probably only important for Ryzen gen 2 or 3 chips if we can push those chips further than Ryzen Gen 1. Another reason I picked up the board is I stumbled across this page and the MSI over clocking tools seem pretty easy to navigate:

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=286610.0

But the motherboard you selected should work well too. If you don't plan of overclocking or only try to go to 3.6 or 3.7ghz disregard my comments above regarding overclocking. Heck it's probably fine for up to 4Ghz overclock.

Ryzen is picky with memory so make sure whatever DDR4 RAM you purchase is on the motherboards QVL list. Also, regarding that Dell Monitor, it regularly goes on sale for 449 at Best Buy. Wait for another sale to pick it up.

Hopefully everything will be here by Friday so I can put it together this weekend and I can let you know how the install goes inside the Meshify C case. I also bought two of these 140mm fans to put on the top of the case since the specs says it should allow for two 140mm up top:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I have an old Antec 900 case that stood the test of time. It still functions well but cleaning it is a pain in the ass. Looking forward to having a case with a bunch of easy access dust filters.
 

kennah

Member
I think I made a costly mistake (well, potentially return shipping costly), the tower I bought came in today and it is GINORMOUS. I double-checked on Newegg and it's in the Mid-ATX section so I'm a little shocked (as I don't think my current case is a Mini-ATX).

I'm conflicted on sending it back or keeping it. I really don't like the size of it and I can keep my current case (as everything is already in it, for starters).

I'm guessing Mid-ATX just means a size range and not a single size factor?
What case is it? The atx size just specified what motherboard it can accept and it will list all sizes. You should always check the dimensions they list in the specs just in case it’s huge huge.
 
I think I made a costly mistake (well, potentially return shipping costly), the tower I bought came in today and it is GINORMOUS. I double-checked on Newegg and it's in the Mid-ATX section so I'm a little shocked (as I don't think my current case is a Mini-ATX).

I'm conflicted on sending it back or keeping it. I really don't like the size of it and I can keep my current case (as everything is already in it, for starters).

I'm guessing Mid-ATX just means a size range and not a single size factor?

ATX, mATX, and mITX are the main standards for motherboard sizes. Those are consistent. But for cases, although they'll say whether they support any/all of those sizes, the "full-size ATX" versus "mid-size ATX" vs whatever aren't to any consistent standard, to my knowledge.
 
What case is it? The atx size just specified what motherboard it can accept and it will list all sizes. You should always check the dimensions they list in the specs just in case it’s huge huge.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854042

It's two inches taller and an inch and a half wider than my current case.

What stinks is that I love everything else about it, but the size is just a deal breaker, I think. Especially as it will be 90% empty space.
 
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