Goose_Se7en
Banned
Yea I think that is exactly what it is. I'm gonna try to revert to 1142. Dunno if I can but I'm gonna try.
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
Yea I think that is exactly what it is. I'm gonna try to revert to 1142. Dunno if I can but I'm gonna try.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
Downloaded firmware 1142 off the Samsung webpage and couldn't roll the firmware back. I wish I hadn't updated to 1152. I can get HDR video but no 4K.
I think there is a setting that reverts the tv to factory settings. Have you tried that?
Ifvthat doesnt work try the 1150 version.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
Just tried your suggestion and it didn't work. I'm pretty much shit outta luck with when it comes to 4K content on YouTube. Fuck why did I have to be a bonehead and want to experience HDR on YouTube? Lol.
Hopefully Samsung releases an update that supersedes this one. I've learned my lesson. Don't download random updates. Should have known better once I saw that it was from the Korean site.
RPS37
Member
I don't know if this is the place to ask but
I just bought a soundbar (it has 1 hdmi in)
Should I just plug my devices direct into the box thing and then plug soundbar into the box thing via optical?
I was really hoping I could just plug all my devices direct into the tv and then plug the tv direct into the soundbar via hdmi...
Halp!!!
I just bought a soundbar (it has 1 hdmi in)
Should I just plug my devices direct into the box thing and then plug soundbar into the box thing via optical?
I was really hoping I could just plug all my devices direct into the tv and then plug the tv direct into the soundbar via hdmi...
Halp!!!
If your soundbar has Bluetooth the tv will connect with it easily. Didnt need to use optical. I did the same as you but tv started to pair with soundbar so i said screw it lol.
You can probably use the HDMI audio return channel jack from the Samsung One Connect box. It's the HDMI marked "ARC". Optical will of course work as well.
I have all my devices connected directly to the One Connect box and use optical to send audio to my non-4K, high input lag Denon AVR-1610 POS receiver.
CreateNowSleepLater
Member
Just got mine set up. It seems really pixelated but with a lack of detail on faces for example. I'm used to a DLP so that might be the difference. I'm not seeing light bleed. How do I "smooth" out the picture without losing detail? Source is Directv. Any features I need to turn off? I have a firmware update (1142) that I havent done yet. I have the FA01 panel but I still cant find what the difference is supposed to be.
RPS37
Member
Thanks I didn't even think to try Bluetooth.
Seems like I can't control the soundbar's volume with my tv remote though
Has anyone else seen something that looks like a loss of color or motion blur for a brief moment when playing games? If I'm seeing it correctly it happens when fast motion occurs and it looks like a loss of color or sudden blur.
It happens maybe once ever 30 hours or so, so I can't really replicate the problem. It's not a big issue, but I'm interested to hear if you guys experience it also. I've seen it during gameplay of a regular PS4 @ 1080p and also during PS4 Pro usage @ 4K HDR.
It happens maybe once ever 30 hours or so, so I can't really replicate the problem. It's not a big issue, but I'm interested to hear if you guys experience it also. I've seen it during gameplay of a regular PS4 @ 1080p and also during PS4 Pro usage @ 4K HDR.
boredandlazy
Member
Just put an order in for a 65 inch KS9000. I'll be picking it up Saturday, but not getting it mounted etc. until later in the week.
Looking forwards to playing some Tomb Raider in 4K etc.
Looking forwards to playing some Tomb Raider in 4K etc.
noomi
Member
I actually had to return my Seinheiser headphones that I recently bought becuase there was no autio out output.
That being said, you can still plug into optical, or use bluetooth, I opted for bluetooth
That's odd, I updated to 1152 and have had no issues whatsoever. Youtube 4K and HDR work just fine for me.
I wonder if you could plug an astro mixamp into the optical and a USB port and have that work ?
Head.spawn
Junior Member
Just put an order in for a 65 inch KS9000. I'll be picking it up Saturday, but not getting it mounted etc. until later in the week.
Looking forwards to playing some Tomb Raider in 4K etc.
Congrats, you're going to enjoy the hell out of it. That's the same model/size i bought and its the first time i bought a new tv and an still completely content with it this far after purchase.
It might just be marketing lingo. I was just curious since the premium certified ones are the ones I have on order.
Well if yours works out, then maybe there is something to it and I'll order me one of those, lol.
Goose_Se7en
Banned
I feel like the biggest idiot. My brother was downloading several games on his Xbox last night and watching Netflix. It was hogging bandwidth and I am sure it didn't allow me to watch YouTube at 4K.
Everything works perfectly now.
TetraGenesis
Member
Thanks I didn't even think to try Bluetooth.
Seems like I can't control the soundbar's volume with my tv remote though
When you use Bluetooth then set the soundbar to output the TV source, it should be controllable with your KS8000 remote. That's what happened for me anyway.
Plinko
Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
Word of caution, though: It's an upgrade for 1080p and HDR stuff. It's actually worse with 720p/1080i content because the Panny Plasma scaler was fantastic.
I'm still struggling with sports. Does anybody have some good settings for sports?
Just to make sure since someone brought it up.
It's absolutely impossible not to get an LED/LCD without a little bit of clouding, right? That's just how the panels work, and it should have zero bearing on the picture itself.
I got over the clouding paranoia years ago, but I just wanted to inquire since someone claimed they got a zero-cloud TV, which sounds impossible.
It's absolutely impossible not to get an LED/LCD without a little bit of clouding, right? That's just how the panels work, and it should have zero bearing on the picture itself.
I got over the clouding paranoia years ago, but I just wanted to inquire since someone claimed they got a zero-cloud TV, which sounds impossible.
Conkerkid11
Member
Ugghh... It's back up on Amazon, and as tempted as I am to pick it up, I would also need to get a new TV stand and everything.
Not impossible, unlikely but not impossible, my current set has no clouding whatsoever but I swapped it out 6 times, not sure what the ks7000 (8000US) will be like when I get it but I will swap it out again until I get one with the least noticeable amount or none, I am not paying top price for something and just living with a defect in the panel, you just need to know when to be satisfied.
I would say the following image is an acceptable level of clouding for this TV, anything more I would exchange
That's about what I have, but thankfully without that one distracting bit on the bottom center. As long as most of it is relegated to the edges it's no big deal and should be something you'll never see even in dark settings.
The thing I'm constantly fussing over is which presets to stick to. It seems that for 4K movies on Xbox One S, the Standard preset delivers the best colors, while either Movie or Dynamic works for games. PS4 Pro, I'm constantly shifting between Movie or Dynamic, and having Dynamic Contrast at least be on low or medium.
HDMI Black Level, Color Space and Smart LED are still settings where I'm unsure on what makes the best combination.
Of course it can have bearing on the picture.
Especially if you're in a dimly lit/pitch black room and watching a movie or playing a game with a lot of dark scenes.
Clouding is to me totally distracting and one of the main reasons I went with plasma at the time after buying and returning 3 different LED Tvs.
But if you can't see it on yours during normal viewing (apart from the boot screen as you said), then it's fine.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
I don't think so. I disable HDMI-CEC and ARC so those shouldn't be factors. I think the set just tries to auto-adjust to the source which is probably a good thing for 90% of owners, but a pain in the ass for home theater guys who run everything through one input. It may be possible to adjust something in the Nvidia control panel so that the TV no longer wants to switch to PC mode when you change to that source on the receiver.
Just watch normal content: movies, games, etc. If there are any real problems they will become apparent. Don't go looking for issues with test slides and videos because you will almost certainly find them. The good news is that the smaller the set, the less likely you will see issues.
noomi
Member
hah! well glad you got it sorted then
Not impossible, unlikely but not impossible, my current set has no clouding whatsoever but I swapped it out 6 times, not sure what the ks7000 (8000US) will be like when I get it but I will swap it out again until I get one with the least noticeable amount or none, I am not paying top price for something and just living with a defect in the panel, you just need to know when to be satisfied.
I would say the following image is an acceptable level of clouding for this TV, anything more I would exchange
Pardon my ignorance, but how would I be able to test this? is this something that is built into the TV?
Aztechnology
Member
hah! well glad you got it sorted then
Pardon my ignorance, but how would I be able to test this? is this something that is built into the TV?
I just want to say your holiday Avatar is the best. Subtle, but great.
Need to change mine when I get home later today.
As to the question it's a test pattern from here, local dimming test pattern.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html
meltingparappa
Member
Ah shit, I think I have significant clouding going on.
Or at least the Final Fantasy intro text brings up three times as much bleeding as your example.
What makes the tinkering harder is that I've got to work with both HDR and non-HDR presets, which are different and usually work better with different settings.
For example, you and others mention Smart LED is preferable for HDR, but it seems to hinder 1920x1080 content. Similar to Dynamic Contrast and other settings.
So yeah, it's going to take a lot of playing around still.
I'm playing FF15 on my PS4 pro right now and I can't find the perfect spot for HDR ... it all seems like either the colours or the whites are saturated at some point. Maybe it's just me but I have to turn down the contrast to 60 to get good colors but I'm not sure it's better than SDR. Anyone is experiencing that kind of issue with FF15? Note that my KS8000 is brand new and I calibrated it quickly and by eye so it's not perfect.
noomi
Member
I see frequent mentions of this Disney Wow calibration disc. Upon looking on amazon I can see that it is a few years old and quite expensive. Is this still a valid calibration tool to use with 4K tv's? I would imagine that a newer version that specifically targets 4K & HDR TV's must be available in the near future.
Awesome, thank you! Right now I don't have a means of connecting my PC (steam link on the way though) so USB will have to suffice. Curious to see how it looks, will post results later tonight for anyone that might be curious.
Hah! Thanks! Someone on the Off Topic side was nice enough to Christmify my avatar for me as I have no editing skills
Awesome, thank you! Right now I don't have a means of connecting my PC (steam link on the way though) so USB will have to suffice. Curious to see how it looks, will post results later tonight for anyone that might be curious.
Hah! Thanks! Someone on the Off Topic side was nice enough to Christmify my avatar for me as I have no editing skills
Joei
Member
So I had a plasma and my PS4 and if I wanted to play a game, I'd just put it in and play, no questions. Now I have a KS8000 and a Pro and if I want to play a game I have to change a bunch of settings to make sure I'm looking at the game correctly... /sigh, really...? What did I get into?
Honestly a lot of this is just me obsessively looking for the "ideal" setting. Frankly, I consider it a good thing that you can set up different presets for different connected devices, because sometimes one device needs lower brigthness than the other, or another device would improve with lower contrast, etc.
For 4K devices like the PS4, it's basically two presets that you have to tinker with, for both regular and HDR content. I've pretty much settled on an ideal preset for the 4K+HDR stuff, I just need to play some more 1080p content to find my favorite settings for that.
I don't change any settings really. Dialed settings in for game mode, dialed settings in for movie mode. When playimg hdr games just crank the backlight to 20 and you're good.
No idea why this thread is so long.
Art Vandilay
Member
Yeah... this is starting to get ridiculous. Read the OP, read the rtings.com settings, and read the AVS Forum owners thread settings. Mix and match to your preference (they're all about the same), and keep your TV updated.
Parmadillo Marshmallow
Member
Got my TV 2 days ago, first night was mostly setup and didn't really use it much.
I didn't have any HDR-capable games so last night I downloaded UC4 just to finally see HDR for myself.
Graphics definitely blew me away, but I didn't know if it was because of the HDR or because UC4 just has amazing graphics. So I switched back and forth a few times to see what the difference was. A bit of a pain because of the backlight bug, but whatever.
The difference between HDR and SDR in UC4 is subtle and amazing at the same time. In HDR mode, this is the first game I have ever played that legitimately looks like a modern CGI movie. With the exception of some of the hair, which doesn't look quite as good as decent CGI hair, and the occasional janky animation. Switching to SDR, the game just looks much flatter and more like what I've come to expect from video game graphics on a TV, not CGI movie graphics in a movie theater. It's really hard to explain, but looking at things like dark fabric, in SDR I get huge swathes of the same color, stiffly transitioning into different shades. With HDR, that same swathe of fabric has so much subtle variation in color throughout the whole area. When multiplied across the entire scene, it creates something akin to a movie theater image quality.
I didn't have any HDR-capable games so last night I downloaded UC4 just to finally see HDR for myself.
Graphics definitely blew me away, but I didn't know if it was because of the HDR or because UC4 just has amazing graphics. So I switched back and forth a few times to see what the difference was. A bit of a pain because of the backlight bug, but whatever.
The difference between HDR and SDR in UC4 is subtle and amazing at the same time. In HDR mode, this is the first game I have ever played that legitimately looks like a modern CGI movie. With the exception of some of the hair, which doesn't look quite as good as decent CGI hair, and the occasional janky animation. Switching to SDR, the game just looks much flatter and more like what I've come to expect from video game graphics on a TV, not CGI movie graphics in a movie theater. It's really hard to explain, but looking at things like dark fabric, in SDR I get huge swathes of the same color, stiffly transitioning into different shades. With HDR, that same swathe of fabric has so much subtle variation in color throughout the whole area. When multiplied across the entire scene, it creates something akin to a movie theater image quality.
Hey, picked up a KS8000 this week and wanted to be clear on a few things.
1) Netflix/YouTube/Amazon are updated for HDR on PlayStation 4 right now?
2) Are the Netflix/YouTube/Amazon Samsung apps updated for HDR too, or do I have to wait for the firmware update?
3) Is there an easy way on the remote to display the current input source settings (resolution, frame output, hdr active, etc.) that's seen when you switch inputs? Can't figure it out.
4) Is there a way to erase a network share that's being displayed under Source?
Thanks!
1) Netflix/YouTube/Amazon are updated for HDR on PlayStation 4 right now?
2) Are the Netflix/YouTube/Amazon Samsung apps updated for HDR too, or do I have to wait for the firmware update?
3) Is there an easy way on the remote to display the current input source settings (resolution, frame output, hdr active, etc.) that's seen when you switch inputs? Can't figure it out.
4) Is there a way to erase a network share that's being displayed under Source?
Thanks!
Arc07
Member
I can answer 2 & 3.
2) As of firmware 1150, Netflix/Amazon are in HDR. YouTube requires the latest firmware that hasn't made it stateside yet. (Korean only?)
3) Just press the main circle button to see the resolution and other stats.
TetraGenesis
Member
Isn't the current US firmware 1142? Am I behind?
When I'm already using a source, the main circle button doesn't display anything when I press it.
Maybe it's because the TV set up the ability to control the PlayStation and Xfinity natively using their remote, and it's superseding the ability to use that button to display input info?
How would I turn that off?
Thanks for helping.
I'm pretty sure 1142 is the current US firmware, and people are updating using firmware from other regions. Seems like a bad idea, IMO.
I picked up a 65 inch Samsung KS8000. Waiting to have Cable and internet hooked up in my new home so I haven't been able to play around with the TV yet. My question is, how is this TV for sports viewing and playing games at 30 FPS? I have been reading motion on Samsung TVs aren't that great and there is judder when playing a game at 30FPS or watching fast paced sports. Is that true? I would have to go a different route if motion is going to be a huge problem.
Confusatron
Member
Sports look great on it. I watch a lot of soccer and football on mine. Picture quality is superb, no motion problems.
x Dredgen Yor x
Member
I have the same problem
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
Pressing the circle/OK button only works sometimes. The only reliable way to get the info banner is to go to the source list and select your source again. It will display the banner at the top.
Also, 1150 was the firmware my US-based set updated to when I first turned on the unit. It was not from another region. However, some people aren't getting it for some reason. 1152 is the one from Korea.
Arc07
Member
Wait really? I'm on 1150 and I didn't install it via USB.
It seems fine to me, but if you have problems with it, there is this:
Nope
Latest firmware is 1152 and it seems it introduced youtube HDR and some fixes to motion/judder.
This firmware isn't out yet in all regions. Curious to see if there is a difference.
MattGalvatron
Member
Im us and i have 1150
TetraGenesis
Member
Hmm. Guess I should check for an update. A Samsung tech rep told me 1142 was up to date as of two days ago so maybe it just released.
But does that mean Netflix doesn't have HDR on 1142? Because I was trying Marco Polo and thought it was but maybe not.
But does that mean Netflix doesn't have HDR on 1142? Because I was trying Marco Polo and thought it was but maybe not.
Ahhh, thanks. I guess I'll manage if I need to check.
Weird, the auto-update says I'm at the latest on 1142, and the website has nothing newer. I guess I just need to wait, haha.