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NextGen Wheels peripherals PS4 and Xbox One Thread: NeoGaf Wheel Club Updates in OP
- Thread starter amar212
- Start date
As a fellow tinkerer I thought you'd like it
It's ironic that a cheaper construction would have used self-tapping screws into the plastic moulding, so there wouldn't have been a (far superior) brass insert to come loose. The microswitches are a standard component and although they literally cost pennies they are normally very reliable.
The load cell on the brake pedal is considered a consumable - these do have a limited life, especially under the intense and frequent loading under a brake pedal (and why they are available as 'spares' from Fanatec).
I think I've had around four years of regular hard use from the wheel and pedals, so I'm quite philosophical about these recent issues.
soundscream
Member
So the Thrustmaster t 150 was announced. $200, PC, PS4, PS3, and its able to add the th8a shifter and t3pa pedals. Good deal for perspective PS wheel shoppers. Hope they offer something like this for the XB1 for guys who dong want to take the jump for the TX. But seeing as how the TX is available for $299, they might not.
MisterJoynt
Neo Member
You know, if this is a quality wheel the pedals can be upgraded this may be the right option for someone who wants a new wheel but doesn't want to have a the heavy investment of the T300RS.
Yeah this is looking like the wheel for me. Now they just need to launch it in the states.
drugstore_cowboy
Member
Should fit, easy enough to drill new ones if not.
That's a relative term, unfortunately. I hope it works natively.
soundscream
Member
Wheels usually have the same holes by company, so all the Thrustmaster wheels should basically be screwed in the same spots.
Oooooh. Interest piqued slightly. Hope it isn't a complete piece of shit. And it doesn't feel worse than my G27. And it's not a complete ripoff in Australia.
Side question: Is it possible to get Logitech shifters/pedals working on the Thrustmaster wheels, even if they use adapters? If I could get a T150 and use my G27 pedals and shifter (on PS3/4), I'd be pretty happy.
Has anyone heard about these before? Read about them in the stick thread, but totally relevant here:
But it also says "wired" wheels work:
Obviously it's using controller mapping, but maybe in the future it could map something like a G27 to a G29? On Shoryuken forums (where it's being used for fightsticks) they mention throughout the main thread that firmware updates add support for various controllers/PCBs, maybe it could be done. Fingers crossed.
Edit: Brook Super converter for Logitech G27 to PS4
But it also says "wired" wheels work:
Obviously it's using controller mapping, but maybe in the future it could map something like a G27 to a G29? On Shoryuken forums (where it's being used for fightsticks) they mention throughout the main thread that firmware updates add support for various controllers/PCBs, maybe it could be done. Fingers crossed.
Edit: Brook Super converter for Logitech G27 to PS4
soundscream
Member
Has anyone heard about these before? Read about them in the stick thread, but totally relevant here:
But it also says "wired" wheels work:
Obviously it's using controller mapping, but maybe in the future it could map something like a G27 to a G29? On Shoryuken forums (where it's being used for fightsticks) they mention throughout the main thread that firmware updates add support for various controllers/PCBs, maybe it could be done. Fingers crossed.
Edit: Brook Super converter for Logitech G27 to PS4
If its tricking the system to think its a controller its got the same shortcomings as all those other converters (no FFB).
Looks interesting, but don't these dongles introduce lag and struggle to forward FFB effects?
Based on that video, it does not work.
The wheel movements have nothing to do with what hapens on screen.
Also, no damn way FFB would work. It maybe *CAN* emulate shock effects into some form of weak FFB, but tactile FFB can't work without being enabled by console CPU through particular API.
And somehow I do not see that as possibility.
Yeah, that's what I suspected. My theory was that if it can emulate a controller, maybe there's a chance in the future it could emulate an actual FFB device like a G27.
Apparently no lag. And if anyone would know, it's the guys on the SRK forums that play fighting games.
Yeah
And it was a bad game to choose to demonstrate it, too. Would've been better to pick something that tries to emulate real driving a little better, like pCARS or DC. But picking an NFS title (I think)... hmmm.Given they're a Chinese company, I'm hoping they somehow pull the dodgy and can fully emulate the G29 on the G27 via a firmware update to the device. I might email their support.
Edit: Found these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVqJ-JXbaRk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7pygbtHxDg
and it looks laggy as hell. No idea if that's actual input lag or due to linearity between joystick and wheel conversion, but it still looks like arse and practically unplayable.
That's sadly typical of these types of devcices. Maybe one day they'll solve it.
Where's that sulky guy that used to promote one on GAF that he claimed worked just fine? The one who was a mod on the company's forums, or something? Maybe that one has seen improvements since.
soundscream
Member
Shhhh you will awaken the picklock and his magical cronos max.
Haven't you seen any horror movies? You're not supposed to mention his name out loud!
It's not lag you're seeing, but the controller deadzone. The adapter just emulates a hand controller and most driving games set significant deadzones in the sticks by defult. Plus many racing games don't allow you to adjust the deadzone to 0 for hand controllers either. So not only do you have no FFB, but with the massive deadzone the game is completely unplayable anyway.
I think that Cronusmax thing (that was peddled harder on this forum than Lance Armstrong's pushy) has the ability to flash different settings to the device to override and remove deadzone through a process of trial and error. Of course you would have to reprogram it again when used with a different game though. All of these devices are shit for FFB wheels. Doesn't stop the manufacturers from playing on peoples naivety though.
Fuck you Brook Brook.
Save yourself $60, sell your G25/27 and pick up a Thrustmaster T150 when they're available if you're on a budget.
Yup. I suspect it's a misinformed publicity person, but still... it's massively misleading, especially considering their site contradicts what they say completely.
It's the best idea of yours, to sell the G27 and get the T150. Hopefully there's a way to use the Logitech pedals/shifter with it.
I think there are some changes in the way ps4 remaps buttons on steering wheels.
Remapping with no problem with the dual shock, but i can't remap my thrustmaster T100 anymore.
I used to invert the pedals in DC and PCars to use them like the T500 cause i can't really play with the standard setting.
Anyone has a similar issue?
Remapping with no problem with the dual shock, but i can't remap my thrustmaster T100 anymore.
I used to invert the pedals in DC and PCars to use them like the T500 cause i can't really play with the standard setting.
Anyone has a similar issue?
Thrustmaster TX... unless spending >$1000 for Fanatec gear is your thing.
Ok, two questions. Are there any places to get them in good condition cheap (second hand doesn't matter)? Second, is there any positive buzz about the new logitech wheel that is coming out in october that would warrant waiting for it over the thrustmaster? I know lots of people seemed to love the g27.
1. The iRacing forums, Inside Sim Racing Forums, eBay, also keep an eye on Slickdeals for a sale.
2. Don't bother with the G920. While the G27 was/is great because it is a great value (wheel, shifter and pedals all for <$300). The new Logitech wheel misses this key point. The base cost is $400, there are no major internal improvements, and the shifter is separate. About the only positive is Logitech wheels are essentially bullet proof.
Thrustmaster wheels have better performance across the board (with the exception of the T80). In addition TM has a whole ecosystem of add ons (wheel rims, pedals, shifters, etc).
Great, just what I needed to know. Thanks!
BEHOLD! I have the device in my possession that unlocks the FULL FFB potential of the Xbox One and Forza 6!!!
But seriously, just got my Fanatec X1 hub for the v2 base and Forza 6 is feelin pretty amazing
BEHOLD! I have the device in my possession that unlocks the FULL FFB potential of the Xbox One and Forza 6!!!
But seriously, just got my Fanatec X1 hub for the v2 base and Forza 6 is feelin pretty amazing
Ha ha..! Nice one.
De-soldered my faulty paddle microswitch on my GT2 this evening and re-soldered a new one in place, aaaaaand... it doesn't work. Dry joint, faulty replacement, short circuit, fried board... who knows. Bah. Thank fuck I've got a spare wheel, got some awesome private lobby pCARS racing lined up tonight.
But yeah. Bah.
Insane Metal
Gold Member
BEHOLD! I have the device in my possession that unlocks the FULL FFB potential of the Xbox One and Forza 6!!!
But seriously, just got my Fanatec X1 hub for the v2 base and Forza 6 is feelin pretty amazing
._.
I can't believe I got Rick Rolled in 2015. Fucking hell.
SeeNoWeevil
Member
My setup is complete..
BEHOLD *dramatic music*
BEHOLD *dramatic music*
I lost the last crucial 10-15% of braking power last night in MP races and knew straight away what the reason was - my temporary hollow-ball mod to the bathroom scale load cell was crushed flat. I'm amazed it worked for as long as it did as it was only fitted to prove a theory while a proper ball bearing was sourced. The new solid BB to replace the crushed ball is on the right (warning - lazy S6 phone photos):
Here's the new BB fitted between the piston and the load cell. Problem solved:
As mentioned, my attempt to replace a shifter microswitch on my GT2 was a failure. I probably created a short in the PCB trying to get the old switch off, as each of the four pins had to be released one by one with the soldering iron and the switch carefully prised off bit by bit. It was incredibly fiddly, as was fitting the new switch on to existing solder, and ended up as a bit of a mess.
Annoyingly, the old switch now seems to be operating fine, almost as if the heat from the iron as it was being removed freed it up. Oh well, the wheel still works, I just have to use my h-gate or sequential shifter instead of the paddles.
Testing:
I'll keep using the Frankenwheel while I investigate getting a completely new board. I imagine it's prohibitively expensive though. I might be better off harvesting the organs of a cheap doner wheel from eBay.
Here's the new BB fitted between the piston and the load cell. Problem solved:
As mentioned, my attempt to replace a shifter microswitch on my GT2 was a failure. I probably created a short in the PCB trying to get the old switch off, as each of the four pins had to be released one by one with the soldering iron and the switch carefully prised off bit by bit. It was incredibly fiddly, as was fitting the new switch on to existing solder, and ended up as a bit of a mess.
Annoyingly, the old switch now seems to be operating fine, almost as if the heat from the iron as it was being removed freed it up. Oh well, the wheel still works, I just have to use my h-gate or sequential shifter instead of the paddles.
Testing:
I'll keep using the Frankenwheel while I investigate getting a completely new board. I imagine it's prohibitively expensive though. I might be better off harvesting the organs of a cheap doner wheel from eBay.
drugstore_cowboy
Member
You win some, you lose some.
Yep, that was my philosophy. It was worth a try with nothing to lose, and was still good fun to do.
What he said^
It's not lag you're seeing, but the controller deadzone. The adapter just emulates a hand controller and most driving games set significant deadzones in the sticks by defult. Plus many racing games don't allow you to adjust the deadzone to 0 for hand controllers either. So not only do you have no FFB, but with the massive deadzone the game is completely unplayable anyway.
I think that Cronusmax thing (that was peddled harder on this forum than Lance Armstrong's pushy) has the ability to flash different settings to the device to override and remove deadzone through a process of trial and error. Of course you would have to reprogram it again when used with a different game though. All of these devices are shit for FFB wheels. Doesn't stop the manufacturers from playing on peoples naivety though.
Fuck you Brook Brook.
Save yourself $60, sell your G25/27 and pick up a Thrustmaster T150 when they're available if you're on a budget.
Superb post! MGR knows wassup guys.
It hasn't, sadly. I HAVE been told by the ChronosMax head honcho however, that true FFB support *IS* a planned feature they'll be implementing into a "future product". He wouldn't elaborate but I'm guessing they plan on releasing some new dongle specifically for next gen consoles sometime in the future. Hate to say it but I'll believe it when I see it.
You bastard
The thing that gets me, is you would think that these manufactures would seemingly find it easy to emulate a different peripheral such as a steering wheel if they can accomplish the same thing from a standard controller. I mean, all they have to do is mimic the circuitry found in the wheel and convert that data to the dongle the way they do now. What seems to be the problem?
Okay, so... don't buy the current product (sounds like "future product" means "not this one") but keep your ears peeled. I'm in the same boat as you, I'm not holding my breath for a solution. If one comes in the time it takes me to convince my girlfriend to let me buy a new wheel (which could be well into the "years" measurement) then fantastic, but I doubt it.
Edit: For confirmation (we already knew anyway) that other company responded to my comment on their video with a slightly more honest answer:
Edit: For confirmation (we already knew anyway) that other company responded to my comment on their video with a slightly more honest answer:
Lol. Emulating vibration to simulate FFB would only feel 'really real' to a lobotomised goldfish. What a crock of shit. I'll never be able to trust these guys. Those comments are criminally misleading. Where are Trading Standards when you need them?
Not China. Or Youtube.
So... I just bought a hardly-used Fanatec CSR Elite, CSR Elite pedals, desk mount with shifter bracket, h-gate and sequential shifters, and a wheel stand pro, all for £400. Bargain?
I'll keep the wheel and sell the rest on. Expecting a sizeable upgrade over the GT2.
Can hopefully also get a Formula rim from the US web shop sent to a mate in LA for him to post to me in the UK for around £100 all-in.
I'll keep the wheel and sell the rest on. Expecting a sizeable upgrade over the GT2.
Can hopefully also get a Formula rim from the US web shop sent to a mate in LA for him to post to me in the UK for around £100 all-in.
Wow, those pedals look like shit. And I'm guessing that while we can use our G27 pedals with this, we can't use the shifter.
Yeah, that's what I meant (I think it might've been you who linked me up to that originally?). But no way of using the shifter
So looks like they're the T80 pedals.
The T150 supports the the other Thrustmaster pedals, so the pinouts will be the same, so the Ricmotech adapter will work too.
The T150 supports the the other Thrustmaster pedals, so the pinouts will be the same, so the Ricmotech adapter will work too.
Any help with a Wheel Stand pro question?
I've had a DFGT and the Wheel stand pro for it for a couple years now (since GT5 came out). I'm looking at potentially buying a PS4 wheel but would like to re-use the stand if possible. Any idea if the Thrustmaster T300RS would fit the same stand? Just using the adjustable clamp that comes with the wheel.
I think this is the one I have:
http://www.wheelstandpro.com/produc...gitech-driving-force-gt-pro-ex-fx-wheels---v2
Thanks
I've had a DFGT and the Wheel stand pro for it for a couple years now (since GT5 came out). I'm looking at potentially buying a PS4 wheel but would like to re-use the stand if possible. Any idea if the Thrustmaster T300RS would fit the same stand? Just using the adjustable clamp that comes with the wheel.
I think this is the one I have:
http://www.wheelstandpro.com/produc...gitech-driving-force-gt-pro-ex-fx-wheels---v2
Thanks
I have the T300RS and a wheelstand pro, the wheel base fits the stand but not the pedals. You have to buy some kind of cross bar to bolt the pedals in place. Note the wheelstand pro I had was for the G27.
drugstore_cowboy
Member
I think the WSP v2 comes with the pedal bar, pretty sure mine did.