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The Official Gundam Thread of Gunpla, Origins, and 35 Years of GUNDAMUUUU!

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Alucrid

Banned
Blackheim said:
Yeah, because you have to buy some M200 MKIII Swans first :p

My Unicorn Blu-ray should be here tomorrow or Wed., hopefully.

Shit, that too. GAF, making me spend money since 05-30-2009. (Well before that...I 'twas lurking)
 

thetechkid

Member
So I just got my SD Unicorn model in the mail today, and it looks like it requires 2 seconds of paint so I'll do that tomorrow. Anyone know when the MG or PG models come out for Unicorn?
 

Blackheim

Member
Augemitbutter said:
so cdjapan lists the blu-ray as region free, guess they're reliable.

I got the JP Blu-ray in today, but ... there's no mention of a region code anywhere on the slipcover nor the back of the case. :/


I don't have a camera, but I do have a scanner in case anyone would like to see pictures. It came with a small book containing the UC Timeline, character info, mechanics info, staff interview w/Harutoshi Fukui and Kazuhiro Furuhashi and an essay. Also came with a Yomban ad insert, BD-Live/Blu-ray info papers, Emotion Family Club paper and a Gundam ad insert.
 

Blackheim

Member
Yea, especially since they had footage of him in some of the teasers if I'm not mistaken, blah. Hopefully "Autumn" means "September" >.>
 

S. L.

Member
well some random gundam news:

news Real Grade (RG) line announced
realgrade0258ux.jpg

bandai020.jpg

which are like really fancy 1/144 kits with MG / PG tech in them
The parts already come molded in those various shades.

http://bandai-hobbyproshop.net/gunpla30th/realgrade.html
 
The 00 Seven Sword G looks lovely. Since I just finished my 00 Raiser w/ GN Sword III, I should get this one and combine it with my XN Raiser parts for ultimate accessory action, i.e. 00 XN Raiser Seven Sword/G.

293ipol.jpg


Fuck yeah! :lol :lol :lol
 

S. L.

Member
Dead said:
Interesting. Hope they announce more kits soon though. I dont think I ever want to build another RX-78 again, no matter the grade.
they announced two RG kits.
the other one is based on the 1/1 Scale RX-78 :lol :lol
 
Finishing up my Sinanju - it has been a great journey. I'm still waiting for my Water Decals, its been over 4 weeks now since I ordered them...

Here's a pic of the gun details I've done (pre-decals). It looks white, but the grenade launcher tube is an Aluminum buffing paint.

1-4535-94183-l-AsNE3xJ4UQBTTIv2bWnJ5g.jpg


Also, I went ahead and ordered the Neograde Banshee conversion kit today!
1249351841_600_7.jpg


Expecting it soon, so I started cutting apart the pieces to figure out where everything goes. So far looks to be a fun kit. LOTS of pieces.

1-4535-94184-l-n2k3vWHsIXGf2GyOS3k1A.jpg
 

xero273

Member
While watching Unicorn, they mentioned Bright Noa. I assume Bright is still alive in Unicorn. Does Bright make an appearance in the novel?
 

S. L.

Member
xero273 said:
While watching Unicorn, they mentioned Bright Noa. I assume Bright is still alive in Unicorn. Does Bright make an appearance in the novel?
internet evidence seems to suggest yes.
but the "real" bright noa, aka his voice actor is dead.
 

Deadly

Member
S. L. said:
internet evidence seems to suggest yes.
but the "real" bright noa, aka his voice actor is dead.
How come information about the novel is so scarce? I mean it's been finished for almost a year.
 
S. L. said:
internet evidence seems to suggest yes.
but the "real" bright noa, aka his voice actor is dead.

He definitely makes an appearance... not sure who will voice him, though.

Spoilers ahoy!

Famed captain who played an active part in the “Char Rebellion”. He became commander of the Earth Federation Forces Londo Bell in Universal Century 0096. He is ordered by Ronan Marcenas to either secure or destroy “Laplace’s box”. Having been thrust before the Nahal Argama’s predicament, he couldn’t help but agree. And as such, he becomes involved in the conflict concerning the “box” between the Vist Foundation and the Government’s conservation camp. Following the battle of Dakar, Unicorn Gundam unit’s 1 and 2 are kept on the Ra Cailum. He is requested to become an escort ship of the Vist Foundation a la Martha Vist Carbine, but he half refuses this and tries to proceed with things as intended. In his officers quarters he has photographs of all of those lost in battle, among them Amuro Ray. When he meets with Banagher, he tells him of past Gundam pilots and the environments/circumstances they fought in.
 

S. L.

Member
distantmantra said:
He definitely makes an appearance... not sure who will voice him, though.

Spoilers ahoy!

Famed captain who played an active part in the “Char Rebellion”. He became commander of the Earth Federation Forces Londo Bell in Universal Century 0096. He is ordered by Ronan Marcenas to either secure or destroy “Laplace’s box”. Having been thrust before the Nahal Argama’s predicament, he couldn’t help but agree. And as such, he becomes involved in the conflict concerning the “box” between the Vist Foundation and the Government’s conservation camp. Following the battle of Dakar, Unicorn Gundam unit’s 1 and 2 are kept on the Ra Cailum. He is requested to become an escort ship of the Vist Foundation a la Martha Vist Carbine, but he half refuses this and tries to proceed with things as intended. In his officers quarters he has photographs of all of those lost in battle, among them Amuro Ray. When he meets with Banagher, he tells him of past Gundam pilots and the environments/circumstances they fought in.
it's the Argama we see in the first Unicorn episode, no?
 
S. L. said:
it's the Argama we see in the first Unicorn episode, no?

Nahel Argama, yeah. It's the carrier that first appeared in ZZ. Bright isn't in charge of that ship in Unicorn, though. As of Char's Counterattack, Bright commands the Ra Cailum.
 

S. L.

Member
distantmantra said:
Nahel Argama, yeah. It's the carrier that first appeared in ZZ. Bright isn't in charge of that ship in Unicorn, though. As of Char's Counterattack, Bright commands the Ra Cailum.
yeah, was just wondering since that ship looked pretty familiar
 
Just finished building 00 Gundam Excessive... aka 00 XN Raiser Eleven Sword/G :lol

2010marpickups17.jpg


2010marpickups18.jpg


Definitely going to hit it up with at least some top coat and panel lining later. Just wanting to see how silly/awesome it would look.
 
This is for those of you who build Gunpla kits and customize:

I ordered Sinanju water decals from a gundam retailer on eBay. After taking 30 (frustrating) days to get to my house from China, it came with a gift included.

These came and I have no idea how to utilize them in gunpla customizing - they are tiny metal balls. Any ideas/links?

1-4535-94211-l-UMyBjDGZCdWS1blKdKzcg.jpg
 

Leunam

Member
Use a pin vise to drill holes that will allow those bearings to fit in without falling through. Use them on corners of panels, shields, rifles, whatever. That's what I would use them for.
 
S. L. said:
teehee my Sinanju is done. totally awesome pics tomorrow :D :D

and yeah the beads are for detailing up your kits, like this
http://www.mechaskunk.com/images/shop/B07.JPG
http://www.mechaskunk.com/images/shop/B03.JPG
Wow that was fast! Can't wait to see it! I bet it would run miles around mine haha. So far it looks BAMF.

Also, when you were painting from red to yellow, did you use primer? How did you get it to look so smooth? What brand were you using? I am debating on whether I should use Mr Color's new "Solvent-based acrylic paint" or good ol' Tamiya Acrylic for the Banshee.

Also, apart from using a pin vise (which I don't own), what are some common tools I can use? I have quite a bit of tools. Or is a pin vise the only professional-looking tool?
 

S. L.

Member
Major Williams said:
Wow that was fast! Can't wait to see it! I bet it would run miles around mine haha. So far it looks BAMF.

Also, when you were painting from red to yellow, did you use primer? How did you get it to look so smooth? What brand were you using? I am debating on whether I should use Mr Color's new "Solvent-based acrylic paint" or good ol' Tamiya Acrylic for the Banshee.

Also, apart from using a pin vise (which I don't own), what are some common tools I can use? I have quite a bit of tools. Or is a pin vise the only professional-looking tool?
pin vise is a tiny hand drill for diameters around 1-3mm. it's a must have too when you build (full) resin kits.

the paint was Mr. Primer -> Mr. Base White -> tamiya flat yellow -> tamiya gloss clear -> decals -> mystery gloss clear from the hardwarestore which is mysteriously awesome for super gloss, no idea what is in it, but it doesn't attack acrylics. :lol

if you'd spray yellow directly over a dark color like red you would need like 10 layers :lol

the secret to a smooth finish is sufficient thinning and using original tamiya thinner, they add some mystery to it which makes it spray and dry smoother really good for gloss finish. for flat finish you can use cheapo ethanol mixed with a bit water as it doesn't really mater that much here
 
S. L. said:
pin vise is a tiny hand drill for diameters around 1-3mm. it's a must have too when you build (full) resin kits.

the paint was Mr. Primer -> Mr. Base White -> tamiya flat yellow -> tamiya gloss clear -> decals -> mystery gloss clear from the hardwarestore which is mysteriously awesome for super gloss, no idea what is in it, but it doesn't attack acrylics. :lol

if you'd spray yellow directly over a dark color like red you would need like 10 layers :lol

the secret to a smooth finish is sufficient thinning and using original tamiya thinner, they add some mystery to it which makes it spray and dry smoother really good for gloss finish. for flat finish you can use cheapo ethanol mixed with a bit water as it doesn't really mater that much here
Playing around with mixing ratios ultimately made me pissed off and I gave up trying to airbrush over the weekend (on spare parts of course) trying to get an awesome gold finish on the clear pink parts of the Unicorn...

What mixing ratio do you use for Tamiya paints for thinner? Also, Tamiya primer and thinner is a little easier to get a hold of - would it still have similar results?
 

S. L.

Member
Major Williams said:
Playing around with mixing ratios ultimately made me pissed off and I gave up trying to airbrush over the weekend (on spare parts of course).

What mixing ratio do you use for Tamiya paints for thinner? Also, Tamiya primer and thinner is a little easier to get a hold of - would it still have similar results?
Tamiya primer is by far the best i used so far, but the cans are just so fucking expensive here. Tamiya white primer is just godly :D
using Gunze Mr. Primer in the airbrush is just way more economical :lol

thinning ratio i dunno. just doing it by feeling. ususally something between 1:1 to 2:1 Color/Thinner ratio. Depends a bit on the color. Something like Gunmetal can take a lot more thinner, while white or yellow should a bit less thinner from my experience. adding too few thinner usually gives worse results than too much. with too much the paint usually just isn't covering well and you have to do more layers. without enough thinner you get a rough finish. doesn't look good.

metallic paints i'd spray with a bit more distance so they "dust" a bit more onto the parts. usually gives a better metallic finish imo.
 
Awesome work SL as always! You inspired me, so I went out and picked up some Tamiya Fine primer :lol We'll see if a light sand and some primer will help me get a nice paint job.

What kit are you gonna do next?
 
Nice Sinanju! Hyaku Shiki returns!

Anyway, I wanted to get into airbrushing since I've only done hand painting before. What's the best way to get into it?
 
donkey show said:
Nice Sinanju! Hyaku Shiki returns!

Anyway, I wanted to get into airbrushing since I've only done hand painting before. What's the best way to get into it?
If you own an air compressor (~$70), its easy:

Buy an introductory dual action airbrush. Harbor freight tools has it for cheap ($15-20), and it works decently well. Basically get this to get your feet wet before you dive into a badger or Iwata.

There are plenty of guides showing you what to look for, but basically just buy paint and the appropriate thinner and go to town. Practice on paper, then on extra parts, then on the model.

Also,

Finished the Backpack today. I put the water decals on some of the parts - I used Decal setter - and put some gloss coat on. Looks fantastic IMO. A little more customized details. Even though these are only letters, it came with a few other graphics like Anaheim logos and more Sinanju logos, which are going on a few other parts of the body.

Can't even see the seam lines of the decals :)

1-4535-94217-l-W1nXAGewPVECqNJAgg1A.jpg
 
Major Williams said:
If you own an air compressor (~$70), its easy:

Buy an introductory dual action airbrush. Harbor freight tools has it for cheap ($15-20), and it works decently well. Basically get this to get your feet wet before you dive into a badger or Iwata.

There are plenty of guides showing you what to look for, but basically just buy paint and the appropriate thinner and go to town. Practice on paper, then on extra parts, then on the model.

Also,

Finished the Backpack today. I put the water decals on some of the parts - I used Decal setter - and put some gloss coat on. Looks fantastic IMO. A little more customized details. Even though these are only letters, it came with a few other graphics like Anaheim logos and more Sinanju logos, which are going on a few other parts of the body.

Can't even see the seam lines of the decals :)

1-4535-94217-l-W1nXAGewPVECqNJAgg1A.jpg
Thanks for the tips. I don't have an air compressor so I'll be looking stuff up over the weekend.
 

S. L.

Member
donkey show said:
Thanks for the tips. I don't have an air compressor so I'll be looking stuff up over the weekend.
personally i'd get a semi decent airbrush right from the beginning.
the iwata CR is relatively cheap and will be miles ahead of any 20 bucks airbrush
http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/iwrecr.html

also it is gravity feed (paint on top) which is so much easier to clean and maintain. the nozzle is a bit on the large side with 0.5mm but you can always change that later on. if you are starting it doesn't really make much difference anyways

a cheapo compressor will be fine, just make sure it allows to regulate the pressure and has a moisture trap.


MajorW. what are using using for gloss? it turned out really good
 

Blader

Member
I had a big Gundam binge last summer, but got burned out and never got around to X or Turn A. After seeing Unicorn, I decided to give those two another try. X bored me to tears (the first OP is very nice though). Nine episodes into Turn A so far, it hasn't been all that exciting, but it is interesting.
 

lobdale

3 ft, coiled to the sky
Well I've been wanting to see what these Gundam models they have everywhere are for a while now, so yesterday not even knowing if they are snap together or need glue or what the hell is in the box I strolled into Yuzawaya and bought my first one, the RX-78-2, Ver.G30th HG.

24ydct1.jpg


Had to truck it down to the coin shop for a little pair of clippers and some tweezers and sandpaper, started putting it together last night just really roughly to see what it's like. Just put the main body and the little head and decals together in a few minutes before bed, and have been reading up today on things like panel lining and what not. It's pretty fun!

Now I'm thinking that since I actually have some sort of idea what all this shit is I'll make a trip up to the Yodobashi and get a pack of those little markers and another model to ruin play with.

I've had a good time reading through this thread, lots of good tips and advice. Keep the posts and pictures coming!
 
Finished my Sinanju today!



I started a blog also, the pic links to it!

I think it's pretty presentable for being my second serious build.

I posted it on my blog, but here are some lessons learned for people who need it:

1-4535-94289-l-k8b2hpJe69JExFDmBuIUEg.jpg


Lessons learned:

- No one properly introduced me to sanding the nubs off the gateways, so I have some rough edges from only using the exacto knife
- Spray paints can pool
- Sticker decals suck balls
- Hand painting is rough work unless you have surgeon's hands
-
1-4535-94299-l-Pfkox6gUF4Tv4wuFyxdqTQ.jpg

Putting Tamiya's clear coat over made the paint melt over the decals. Lame.

1-4535-94292-l-2yRZspLqkqGJRDzxuQHOEA.jpg


Also, S.L.: I got my shiny finish using a Gloss paint and Tamiya gloss Clear coat. And if you look in this last pic in the corner, I put the little chrome balls in the leg booster part. Thanks for the advice!
 
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