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The Official Gundam Thread of Gunpla, Origins, and 35 Years of GUNDAMUUUU!

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It bothers me on some figures, particularly those that aren't dudes in full body suits. I think figuarts have gotten really good at hiding them,though. Particularly over the last year. The only joint I find noticeable on new figuarts is the forward and back ab joint.

The elbow joints make the whole thing look like trash to me. The face isn't great either and the details on his clothes all seem underwhelming.

XBXXOId.jpg

It just seems to me like posable figures tend to be really bad for the most part. Fixed figures on the other hand tend to look great and I think it would have been a better choice to make Char a fixed figure. He's not really a dude you'd pose much anyway.
 
The elbow joints make the whole thing look like trash to me. The face isn't great either and the details on his clothes all seem underwhelming.



It just seems to me like posable figures tend to be really bad for the most part. Fixed figures on the other hand tend to look great and I think it would have been a better choice to make Char a fixed figure. He's not really a dude you'd pose much anyway.

There have already been a number of Char statues, though I agree it would be nice to have more. Unfortunately, the market for these figures is aimed at otaku who mostly want female characters.
 
Unfortunately, the market for these figures is aimed at otaku who mostly want female characters.
Well, the only figure I've ever even remotely considered getting was an Aigis Figma. The joints on that didn't look too bad and it looked like a really high quality thing.
Totally a robot, not a girl!

I'm just sticking to mechs though. Paying that much for a thing I don't even get to build? Nah man, where's the fun in that? A quality Char figure would make a nice centerpiece for a more early-UC focused collection, that much is certain.
 
The Robocop figma and the Iron Man Figmas look great also, but those are meant to have joints, as they are robotic in nature.

The early Revoltech human figures looked really bad. Action figure designers have come a long way in regards to hiding joints.
 

Beth Cyra

Member
how come no one here talks about the beauty that is the RX-78-2 2.0 MG?

oh my gossssssssssh.



I'm not a fan of the 78-2, and I don't really care for 0079 as a whole and a major reason for this is I find Gundam to just be ugly. It's to chunky and the thing looks just to fat at times (plus the flat feet are UGLY) and the 2.0 is meant to look exactly like the anime, and while it pulls it off it means that I just hate it.

Katoki and the OYW Gundam is much better because of the sharper angles and more detailed look.

Don't get me wrong I have a 2.0 (picked up the Titanium version) and think the 3.0 isn't needed because of the existence of the 2.0+OYW version.

The Robocop figma and the Iron Man Figmas look great also, but those are meant to have joints, as they are robotic in nature.

The early Revoltech human figures looked really bad. Action figure designers have come a long way in regards to hiding joints.


They really have come along way, but sometimes the design just makes it nearly impossible to solve.

Master Asia Figure Arts is a good example of this. His light purple clothes just can't do anything to hide those really obvious joints and because of it he looks awful. Domon on the other hands looks much better because the joints blend in with the Trace Suit.
 

Mandoric

Banned
While I'm carpet-bombing terminology: Robot Spirits, not Robot Damashii. =D

Can't wait to see what gets announced at Shizuoka Hobby Show next weekend.
 
I think it and the 3.0 are equally appealing in their own way.
Yeah, for sure. I'm leaning more with the One-Year-War one you got instead of getting the 3.0, though. Not sure why. lol

I'm not a fan of the 78-2, and I don't really care for 0079 as a whole and a major reason for this is I find Gundam to just be ugly. It's to chunky and the thing looks just to fat at times (plus the flat feet are UGLY) and the 2.0 is meant to look exactly like the anime, and while it pulls it off it means that I just hate it.
I like the box look, but definitely see where you're coming from. :)

People are weird and don't like the anime accurate look. I have no idea why.
Heh, I reeeeeally like the blocky anime look, so I couldn't answer that one either. lol
 

Beth Cyra

Member
Yeah, for sure. I'm leaning more with the One-Year-War one you got instead of getting the 3.0, though. Not sure why. lol


I like the box look, but definitely see where you're coming from. :)


Heh, I reeeeeally like the blocky anime look, so I couldn't answer that one either. lol

As I said and you quoted, I hate 78-2, however the OYW Gundam is a great look for it and a great model kit.

There is no shame in going OYW Gundam. Granted the RG and 3.0 are really just updates of it when you take a step back, however there are differences and the lines can really make it unique.
 

yami4ct

Member
The elbow joints make the whole thing look like trash to me. The face isn't great either and the details on his clothes all seem underwhelming.



It just seems to me like posable figures tend to be really bad for the most part. Fixed figures on the other hand tend to look great and I think it would have been a better choice to make Char a fixed figure. He's not really a dude you'd pose much anyway.

Elbow joints really don't bother me. Sure they're noticeable in some poses at some angles, but Bandai typically does a good job matching the color enough that they blend in in most cases. Different expectations, I guess. As someone who's been collecting posable figures for years, I guess I tend to overlook something that someone into fixed figures would hate.

As for the outfit, I really love the detail on it. I'm not sure what you'd add. It's Char's outfit and looks faithful to that. I wouldn't want them to add details just to have them there. I much prefer accurate representations than detail-adding redesigns, but that's just me. I do agree with the face, though. It could be better. Hopefully, given Bandai's history with anime figuarts, there will likely be multiple face options so hopefully some of the others have a bit more personality.

In terms of Fixed vs Posable, posable figures have always been my thing. I'm really not interested in statues. If I'm going to put money into something, I want to be able to display it in various fashions in various displays. That's just the what I've always wanted. Even a character like Char has various iconic poses I would like to be able to change between for different displays. It just depends on what you're looking for.
 

Enron

Banned
Does the Tamashii Gouf come with 2 gats or just 1? One of the box poses shows it with 2.

Comes with 2.

No, Damashii replaces the MSiA (Mobile Suit in Action) line. The GFF line still gets the occasional release. There was a GFF 1/100 Banshee released not too long ago.

Yeah, but the GFF releases we get now are the Metal Build ones that are 150$+. The damashiis are way nicer than MSiA ever were - I think its safe to say they are the "new" Fix.
 
The Tamashii Web Shop exclusives have definitely replaced the old "Fix" line, but they're not painted, have markings, or panel-lined, so they'll never look quite as nice.
 
Man, I really need to do a better job with trimming. Especially since I'm working on the MG 1/100 Strike Freedom Gundam I got as a gift.

But dang, I finished the body, and the pieces all feeling they're going to burst apart from the thing in tiny pieces.

That's not to mention that I think something messed up with the head piece, as the little red thing that's on it looks like a piece of it came off. Nothing game-breaking, but for the head piece, it's pretty disappointing.

I probably should have practised more with the HG 1/144 kits before automatically moving on to this 1/100 MG one, lol.
 

mingus

Member
if it's any consolation i broke the horn on my unicorn while trying to figure out how the transformation worked so now it's in perma normal mode :(
 

yami4ct

Member
if it's any consolation i broke the horn on my unicorn while trying to figure out how the transformation worked so now it's in perma normal mode :(

Don't worry too much. MG Unicorn is a brittle, brittle kit. I've broken mine twice. The armor that slides on the front of the hip both times. Got a replacement and broke it again. Now it's glued in permanent destroy mode. Breaking kits is just part of the process. I've broken parts on at least 1/3 of my kits. Learning how to fix things is good practice for modding later on.
 

enzo_gt

tagged by Blackace
Anyone hand-paint their models here? Thinking about doing so with my MG when it comes in.

Pretty wildly different information out there about doing so; not much on hand-painting specifically. Pretty much only got that I should use enamel, but it gets confusing when people say I also need to use lacquer, etc. Also, the guide I linked above says enamel is not recommended for 1/100+ kits, but no real reason why (I guess imperfections are more visible?).
 

Ken

Member
Anyone hand-paint their models here? Thinking about doing so with my MG when it comes in.

Pretty wildly different information out there about doing so; not much on hand-painting specifically. Pretty much only got that I should use enamel, but it gets confusing when people say I also need to use lacquer, etc. Also, the guide I linked above says enamel is not recommended for 1/100+ kits, but no real reason why (I guess imperfections are more visible?).

I think chinner was hand painting his MG Wing but I don't see him post too much in here.
 

yami4ct

Member
Anyone hand-paint their models here? Thinking about doing so with my MG when it comes in.

Pretty wildly different information out there about doing so; not much on hand-painting specifically. Pretty much only got that I should use enamel, but it gets confusing when people say I also need to use lacquer, etc. Also, the guide I linked above says enamel is not recommended for 1/100+ kits, but no real reason why (I guess imperfections are more visible?).

I hand paint details on a lot of my kits after airbrushing. The tips for hand painting are pretty similar to airbrushing/spray cans. Make sure you thin your paint properly, paint in really thin layers, and let fully dry before moving onto the next layer. Also, make sure you can let it dry in as dust free environment as you can.

As for paint types, I don't have too much experience with the difference but here's kind of the gist I've learned over time

Acrylic:
Really cheap for paint and thinner. Can be thinned easily with store bought 90% isopropyl alcohol.

Thinner doesn't eat plastic, so really easy to fix if you make a mistake. You can actually dip the piece in thinner to fully remove the paint.

Dries relatively quickly. You can put on another coat in an hour or so depending on your current humidity/temperature conditions

Negatives: Paint can be very temperamental and you can get orange peeling/other texture issues if you don't handle it right. Can be difficult to get the perfect finish.

Lacquer:
Dries super duper quickly. You can move onto the next coat in just a couple minutes

Low drying time makes it less sensitive to dust and things in the air

Goes on in really nice, thin layers. The coverage on this stuff is unbelievable.

Amazing finishes if done correctly. Almost all the best candy/metallic finishes I've seen are lacquer based

Negative:Thinner is really expensive in my experience. Hobby style lacquers can be tricky to find in non-spray can form. Thinner is VERY corrosive to plastic, so only real stripping option is to sand off previous layer by hand. You also really should use a hobby lacquer thinner in my experiences as hardware store bought stuff is just too strong, which is part of what makes it expensive to use. Fumes. A lot and really nasty fumes. Need good ventilation.

Enamel:
Have zero experience with this stuff. From what I've heard it gives really nice, tough finishes, but has a really long cure time. Similar negatives to lacquer. Expensive with very toxic fumes.


I personally use acrylic both for hand painting details and airbrushing, but that's purely a cost thing. You can get Tamiya or even Gunze Sangyo fairly cheap if you hunt around online. It's touchy, but you can get it to work. The fact that it's so cheap/easy to thin is such a positive to me. If money were no object, though, I'd probably go Lacquer every time. That stuff is just beautiful to work with.
 
Okay, so you know when I said that I was afraid that all the pieces would burst apart from the thing? A tiny part of those fears was realized. I felt uncomfortable with the thing last night and I tried to take the body apart to see where I screwed up.

Big freaking mistake on my part. The entire piece that attaches to the waist freaking snapped into two pieces. I thought it was done for sure there, but remarkably it still fit onto the thing.

So I built the arms and legs of the Strike Freedom in fear that the legs wouldn't attach. To my surprise, they did! So crisis averted there. I just hope the gosh-darn thing doesn't fall apart when I try to put it on the display stand. I'll post pics when it's finished.

This will be the last MG kit I work on for a looooooooong time. I really need more practice with the HG kits.
 

enzo_gt

tagged by Blackace
I hand paint details on a lot of my kits after airbrushing. The tips for hand painting are pretty similar to airbrushing/spray cans. Make sure you thin your paint properly, paint in really thin layers, and let fully dry before moving onto the next layer. Also, make sure you can let it dry in as dust free environment as you can.

As for paint types, I don't have too much experience with the difference but here's kind of the gist I've learned over time

Acrylic:
Really cheap for paint and thinner. Can be thinned easily with store bought 90% isopropyl alcohol.

Thinner doesn't eat plastic, so really easy to fix if you make a mistake. You can actually dip the piece in thinner to fully remove the paint.

Dries relatively quickly. You can put on another coat in an hour or so depending on your current humidity/temperature conditions

Negatives: Paint can be very temperamental and you can get orange peeling/other texture issues if you don't handle it right. Can be difficult to get the perfect finish.

Lacquer:
Dries super duper quickly. You can move onto the next coat in just a couple minutes

Low drying time makes it less sensitive to dust and things in the air

Goes on in really nice, thin layers. The coverage on this stuff is unbelievable.

Amazing finishes if done correctly. Almost all the best candy/metallic finishes I've seen are lacquer based

Negative:Thinner is really expensive in my experience. Hobby style lacquers can be tricky to find in non-spray can form. Thinner is VERY corrosive to plastic, so only real stripping option is to sand off previous layer by hand. You also really should use a hobby lacquer thinner in my experiences as hardware store bought stuff is just too strong, which is part of what makes it expensive to use. Fumes. A lot and really nasty fumes. Need good ventilation.

Enamel:
Have zero experience with this stuff. From what I've heard it gives really nice, tough finishes, but has a really long cure time. Similar negatives to lacquer. Expensive with very toxic fumes.


I personally use acrylic both for hand painting details and airbrushing, but that's purely a cost thing. You can get Tamiya or even Gunze Sangyo fairly cheap if you hunt around online. It's touchy, but you can get it to work. The fact that it's so cheap/easy to thin is such a positive to me. If money were no object, though, I'd probably go Lacquer every time. That stuff is just beautiful to work with.
Thanks for typing this out, it was pretty helpful. I think acrylics are my best option budget-wise, they're what I have the most experience with, and because I don't really have any well-ventilated areas to paint that aren't dusty as hell as well.

Now to decide on a colour scheme.

In other news, I didn't know this was a thing:

4444.jpg


 

Ken

Member
that's the rebawoo from One of Seventy Two, no? i suppose it getting the hguc treatment was only natural after phenex
 
Got some RDs at the Forbidden Planet in Nottingham this past weekend and was pretty surprised they were selling them to begin with, since no one and their mother sells anything Gundam around here.

14154253226_80591e4c35_o.jpg

13990760450_acf9061571_o.jpg

14197532973_5df75cf218_o.jpg


I want loads more now >.<
 

Wubby

Member
Yeah RG(PG?) 1/100 here we come... Feels odd for something like this to come out right after they just did the MG RX-78-2 ver. 3.0 last year. Cause you know the first kit is going to be an RX-78.

But I'll be there in Shizuoka this Sunday. Can't wait to see whatever it is.

Perfect Grade is done for maybe.
 

yami4ct

Member

Honestly, doubt this will affect MG much at all. RG didn't do anything to HGUC. These will likely be PG (RG?) quality of product at 1/100 scale. Betting we'll se these things going for like $80-100 for an average, RX-78 sized suit. The price alone will keep MGs in business. I also suspect that MG will continue to have a far better selection going forward and we'll see maybe 2-4 of these new guys a year.

If it is PG quality at MG scale, I'll be super excited to see how it turns out. MGs are already so good right now, there isn't too much they can do. I expect to see a lot more opening panels and color separation, which will be nice. Hoping for a lot more LED-light gimmicks. I love those.

If it's the return of the 1/100 HG, still excited as that means we can get a wider variety of reasonably priced suits at that scale. Either way, the worst part of this announcement is we'll probably get yet another Zaku-II and RX-78 release before we move onto other, less over-done designs.

Whatever it is, FUN!
 

Beth Cyra

Member
Thanks for typing this out, it was pretty helpful. I think acrylics are my best option budget-wise, they're what I have the most experience with, and because I don't really have any well-ventilated areas to paint that aren't dusty as hell as well.

Now to decide on a colour scheme.

In other news, I didn't know this was a thing:

4444.jpg
Re-Bawoo?

I actually own it. I bought both it and HGUC Unicorn 03 so I could pose them together.
 

Ken

Member

I'm interested.

I've got the LE set pre-ordered. Wasn't expecting much from a pack-in model.

Although, I wish they would've included a Damashii figure instead, like they did with the MSIA Gundam with the Encounters in Space LE back in the day.

It's not really the quality of the model I dislike, but the mouth vents on a GM head.
 
Hey, everyone. I'm ordering an HG model to build while on a long weekend trip, and I want to get some of the "All Gundam Project" models that have the same caps and what not. (The ones from the commercial in Build Fighters)
Which ones are the ones in that line?
 

enzo_gt

tagged by Blackace
Re-Bawoo?

I actually own it. I bought both it and HGUC Unicorn 03 so I could pose them together.
Hnnnghh, I want it, but it's not on HLJ. Seems like a "Premium Bandai" release? Are those just super limited run or what?

Hey, everyone. I'm ordering an HG model to build while on a long weekend trip, and I want to get some of the "All Gundam Project" models that have the same caps and what not. (The ones from the commercial in Build Fighters)
Which ones are the ones in that line?
I think the line is HGBF.
 

duckroll

Member
I think the line is HGBF.

No, HGBF is for Build Fighters. The All Gundam Project is stuff from older shows they're releasing for the modern HG line. It started with Wing Gundam (HGAC), and then they had stuff like V Gundam and F91 Gundam (HGUC), Double X Gundam (HGAW), Turn A Gundam (HGCC), etc.
 

enzo_gt

tagged by Blackace
No, HGBF is for Build Fighters. The All Gundam Project is stuff from older shows they're releasing for the modern HG line. It started with Wing Gundam (HGAC), and then they had stuff like V Gundam and F91 Gundam (HGUC), Double X Gundam (HGAW), Turn A Gundam (HGCC), etc.
this is what I get for being a gundam noob oldtype

damn you, gunpla TV for steering me wrong
 
No, HGBF is for Build Fighters. The All Gundam Project is stuff from older shows they're releasing for the modern HG line. It started with Wing Gundam (HGAC), and then they had stuff like V Gundam and F91 Gundam (HGUC), Double X Gundam (HGAW), Turn A Gundam (HGCC), etc.
So, for example, if I wanted an HG RX-78-2, I should get this one?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030EU4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3ASCtb15RV525

Edit: WOW. That Double-X will be mine.
That looks all kinds of rad.
 
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